Dog Training Tips and Other Frequently Asked Questions
Why Doggie Day Care??
"It's no life for a Dog" - courtesy of the MSPCA
We find them everywhere, in the city, in the suburbs, in rural areas. Dogs live their lives alone in the backyard, behind a fence, or worse, chained to a dog house. They receive food and water if their lucky, but little, if any social contact. Is this a life for a dog?
A life of loneliness, boredom, and frustration? No, this is neglect, a form of animal abuse that often goes unnoticed.
Dogs are social creatures, just like we are. Their ancestors and cousins, the wolves, live in packs. Pack members depend on each other for survival. They hunt together, play together, and sleep together. The domestic dog also depends on it's pack for survival, but WE are their pack. A social animal like the dog needs to be with it's social group to remain psychologically healthy. Food and water are Not enough.
Dogs are banished to the back yard for many reasons. Maybe that cute little puppy turned into a 100 lb dog and is too big to live in the house. Maybe he was never housebroken, or is destructive when left alone. Or perhaps some believe that dogs belong outdoors, so they can run and play whenever they want. But it is a rare dog that enjoys living a life without companionship. The loneliness and frustration that outdoor dogs experience leads to many behavior problems. Some dogs bark all day, others dig holes, and still others develop stereotypical behaviors like pacing and circling. These behaviors are attempts to get attention, to relieve boredom or simply the result of trying to cope with a barren, lonely existence. Many backyard dogs exhibit signs of aggression. This aggression stems from a lack of socialization, barrier frustration, and often times, self-defense. They also become protective of their territory creating a dangerous situation should an unknowing child or meter reader approach too closely.
Dogs are companion animals who Need our companionship. They offer us unconditional love and friendship, all for a simple pat on the head. They deserve love and respect, attention and training, and to sleep among their pack. With a little patience and persistence, any dog can learn to be well behaved in the house.
Companionship with other Dogs, such as a Day Care environment, is just as important as your companionship. A puppy who has no or little interaction with other dogs will be less likely to get along with other dogs when he gets older. This may make it difficult when bringing your dog to the vet's, groomers, park or boarding facility.
"It's no life for a Dog" - courtesy of the MSPCA
We find them everywhere, in the city, in the suburbs, in rural areas. Dogs live their lives alone in the backyard, behind a fence, or worse, chained to a dog house. They receive food and water if their lucky, but little, if any social contact. Is this a life for a dog?
A life of loneliness, boredom, and frustration? No, this is neglect, a form of animal abuse that often goes unnoticed.
Dogs are social creatures, just like we are. Their ancestors and cousins, the wolves, live in packs. Pack members depend on each other for survival. They hunt together, play together, and sleep together. The domestic dog also depends on it's pack for survival, but WE are their pack. A social animal like the dog needs to be with it's social group to remain psychologically healthy. Food and water are Not enough.
Dogs are banished to the back yard for many reasons. Maybe that cute little puppy turned into a 100 lb dog and is too big to live in the house. Maybe he was never housebroken, or is destructive when left alone. Or perhaps some believe that dogs belong outdoors, so they can run and play whenever they want. But it is a rare dog that enjoys living a life without companionship. The loneliness and frustration that outdoor dogs experience leads to many behavior problems. Some dogs bark all day, others dig holes, and still others develop stereotypical behaviors like pacing and circling. These behaviors are attempts to get attention, to relieve boredom or simply the result of trying to cope with a barren, lonely existence. Many backyard dogs exhibit signs of aggression. This aggression stems from a lack of socialization, barrier frustration, and often times, self-defense. They also become protective of their territory creating a dangerous situation should an unknowing child or meter reader approach too closely.
Dogs are companion animals who Need our companionship. They offer us unconditional love and friendship, all for a simple pat on the head. They deserve love and respect, attention and training, and to sleep among their pack. With a little patience and persistence, any dog can learn to be well behaved in the house.
Companionship with other Dogs, such as a Day Care environment, is just as important as your companionship. A puppy who has no or little interaction with other dogs will be less likely to get along with other dogs when he gets older. This may make it difficult when bringing your dog to the vet's, groomers, park or boarding facility.
An estimated 5 million to 8 million animals are euthanized in shelters across this country every year. Many organizations are trying to decrease that number by opening low-cost spay/neuter clinics to prevent more litters of puppies needing homes. One such organization is LifeLine Animal Project, an Atlanta-based nonprofit shelter and clinic that has performed more than 25,000 spay/neuters since 2005. WebMD talked to executive director Rebecca Guinn to learn about the myths and facts surrounding spaying and neutering.
Q: Why should I have my dog spayed or neutered?
A: Shelter euthanasia is the number one killer of companion animals. Spaying and neutering is the only way to reduce or eliminate that.
It’s also better for your pet’s health. And it’s better for you because it will make your life easier if your pet is spayed or neutered. Animals can be miserable -- and make you miserable -- when they are in heat. And then there’s always the problem of what to do with the puppies.
There’s also the financial side. Just in the Atlanta area alone, more than $15 million is spent annually dealing with stray and unwanted pets. That’s your tax dollars.
Q: Shouldn’t I let my dog have a litter before I spay her?
A: No. Absolutely not. All the medical evidence suggests a dog should be spayed before her first heat. It’s much easier for her then because it’s a much easier surgery at that time.
And the problem with letting your dog have a litter is you’ve just instantly contributed to the pet overpopulation problem. Now you have to find homes for all those puppies. And for each home you find, there’s one less home for a dog that was already born. Plus, you can’t be responsible for what the new owners do. So unless you spay or neuter all the puppies before placing them, the new owners may let their dog breed as well. Now you’ve added even more dogs to the pet overpopulation problem.
The only responsible thing to do, given the problem in this country, is to not allow your pets to reproduce.
Some people say they want their children to witness birth. OK, you can still do that. There are plenty of rescue groups out there trying to help animals that have been abandoned by irresponsible pet owners. Many have pregnant animals. Volunteer to foster a pregnant dog. You’ll be helping the group as well as the dog, and you’ll give your children a chance to see a litter being born and raised.
Q: Should I let my dog have a heat before I spay her?
A: Medically, it’s better to spay your dog before her first heat. It greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumors. People who wait to spay their dogs until after their second heat greatly increase the risk of mammary tumors in their pets. Once they’ve had several heats, intact female dogs have a one out of four chance of developing mammary tumors.
Q: Why should I have my dog spayed or neutered?
A: Shelter euthanasia is the number one killer of companion animals. Spaying and neutering is the only way to reduce or eliminate that.
It’s also better for your pet’s health. And it’s better for you because it will make your life easier if your pet is spayed or neutered. Animals can be miserable -- and make you miserable -- when they are in heat. And then there’s always the problem of what to do with the puppies.
There’s also the financial side. Just in the Atlanta area alone, more than $15 million is spent annually dealing with stray and unwanted pets. That’s your tax dollars.
Q: Shouldn’t I let my dog have a litter before I spay her?
A: No. Absolutely not. All the medical evidence suggests a dog should be spayed before her first heat. It’s much easier for her then because it’s a much easier surgery at that time.
And the problem with letting your dog have a litter is you’ve just instantly contributed to the pet overpopulation problem. Now you have to find homes for all those puppies. And for each home you find, there’s one less home for a dog that was already born. Plus, you can’t be responsible for what the new owners do. So unless you spay or neuter all the puppies before placing them, the new owners may let their dog breed as well. Now you’ve added even more dogs to the pet overpopulation problem.
The only responsible thing to do, given the problem in this country, is to not allow your pets to reproduce.
Some people say they want their children to witness birth. OK, you can still do that. There are plenty of rescue groups out there trying to help animals that have been abandoned by irresponsible pet owners. Many have pregnant animals. Volunteer to foster a pregnant dog. You’ll be helping the group as well as the dog, and you’ll give your children a chance to see a litter being born and raised.
Q: Should I let my dog have a heat before I spay her?
A: Medically, it’s better to spay your dog before her first heat. It greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumors. People who wait to spay their dogs until after their second heat greatly increase the risk of mammary tumors in their pets. Once they’ve had several heats, intact female dogs have a one out of four chance of developing mammary tumors.
Puppy Care and Bringing Home Your Baby Puppy: A puppy offers us not only boundless love and cuddles, they give us a
sense of purpose and fulfillment, too. But did you know owning a pet
can also boost your immunity, lower your blood pressure, and reduce
anxiety and depression, all in one fuzzy package? If you're ready to
bring home a puppy, here's what you need to know, from adoption to
training to keeping puppy safe. (excerpts taken from WebMD)
Before Adoption: First Know Thyself:
Before bringing home a puppy, get to know yourself a little better. Why do you want a dog? Will you have the time, space, and money to care for and play with your pup? Which breed do you want? Know the answers before you start looking because "once you look, you are going to bring home a puppy!" says Carrie Damewood, DVM, an Oregon veterinarian. You want to make sure your choice is a good fit because a dog is meant for life -- the dog's life.
Tips for Adopting a Puppy
You've got a lot of options when choosing a puppy:
Shelters, breeders, rescue groups.
Because there are millions of homeless pets, it's a great idea to adopt from a shelter or breed rescue group. We offer a rescue program for Dogs. You can visit our rescue information page if you want to find a rescue pet.
Preparing for Your Puppy's Arrival You'll need a few things before you bring home your new pup. This includes puppy food; a leash and a collar with identifying tags that include your phone number and your vet's number; water and food bowls; a place for your puppy to sleep; brushes for grooming; a folding gate to confine your puppy to one area; pee pads or newspaper; and of course lots of chew toys for your new four-legged friend.
Puppy-Proofing the House Like babies, puppies explore with their mouths. To keep your pup safe you'll need to follow some precautions before bringing your puppy home. This includes: Removing breakables; be sure your puppy can't reach electrical cords that will be chewed; keep low windows closed. Also lock away motor oil, antifreeze, and kitchen and garage cleaning supplies, as well as drugs of all kinds. Trash that is dangerous to puppies should be tossed into a tall garbage can that your puppy can't reach.
Do Puppies Need Puppy Food? Puppies really do need food specially designed for their smaller bodies, says Linda P. Case, co-author of Canine and Feline Nutrition. That's because a growing puppy needs more protein and calories than an adult dog, and a puppy's smaller mouth and weaker jaw requires a kibble made for their chewing ability. We highly recommend Royal Canin puppy Food that is specially formulated for Puppies growing needs and was developed by a Vet. Don't forget that puppies also need plenty of fresh, clean water.
How Much Food Does Puppy Need? Dogs are "what we call voracious eaters" says Case, and will eat a lot if the food is available. For this reason it's a good idea to avoid feeding your puppy buffet-style. Another reason is so you can watch your pup eat -- because, this is a good way to keep tabs on your fuzzy friend's health. How much food a puppy needs depends on its breed; use the suggestions on the pet food as a starting point, but know that some pups need less than recommended, and others may need more.
Dog Beds and Crates Puppies may sleep from 14 to 20 hours a day, so keeping them comfortable while they snooze is important. For bonding, many experts suggest that your puppy sleep in your bedroom at first, whether in their own bed or a crate. If you use a crate, use it only for sleeping, housebreaking, and travel. Dogs aren't meant to live in crates, so experts suggest using a crate judiciously.
Inside or Outside? You'll need to decide if your pup will be an indoor or outdoor dog. Dogs are pack animals and do best when they're with their pack -- which is You. If you keep your dog outdoors often, make that adjustment slowly, and always make time for daily walks and play. A fenced yard is vital to keeping your dog safe, and be sure the yard has an enclosed, dry, draft-free spot to keep your dog warm, as well as a shaded area to keep them cool. And don't forget to make plenty of fresh water available.
Bringing Your Puppy Home Your puppy's first days in their new home are scary, so give them lots of loving attention. Play with them often, and bring your puppy's bed or crate into your bedroom at night, so they can be near you. Soon after your puppy settles in, schedule their first vet visit. This visit is important, says Damewood. "We'll make sure there's no health problems with your new friend, and we'll talk about nutrition, housebreaking, and what to expect from your puppy.'
Tips on Housebreaking a Puppy Your puppy doesn't want to make a mess where they live, so it's up to you to show them the right thing to do. Two signs your pup needs to potty: (1) Sniffing the ground to find a likely spot, and/or (2) racing around frantically. When you see this behavior, pick your puppy up and place the little one on a newspaper, pee pad or outside. After your puppy has peed in the right place, offer praise or a treat. Puppies relieve themselves every few hours, so expect accidents along the way!
Obedience and Training "I recommend every puppy go to obedience classes," says Damewood, "even if you can teach them yourself, the puppy will benefit from the social side of classes, they'll get to work things out when there's chaos around, and most importantly it'll help you stay on track and do your homework." With a little time, kindness, and patience, you can teach your rambunctious, rough-and-tumble puppy what good behavior is.
The Importance of Play Ask any puppy and they'll tell you: Playing is fun! Devoting time daily to playing with your pup helps them in many ways: They expend energy, satisfy their inquisitive nature, develop physical coordination and importantly, bond with you. When you play, use toys as toys, not your puppy's leash, your hands, or anything else you don't want your puppy to grow up thinking of as quarry.
Walking Your Puppy Even if your puppy has a great yard, you'll need to take your little one for walks -- and this holds true once they're grown, too. Walks give dogs exercise and mental stimulation, let them interact with other dogs met along the way, and allow them to leave scent markings, which can be important for a male dog's sense of self. Aim for no less than 60 minutes daily, broken into two to four walks.
Keeping Kids and Puppies Safe They can look as cuddly and soft as teddy bears, but puppies aren't toys. As much as kids and canines love to play together, a young dog is still learning the ropes and may respond to rough-housing, well, roughly. There's also the chance that energetic kids could play too hard with their still-growing pup. The solution is to supervise puppies and children at all times so that they both stay safe.
Caring for Puppy's Coat and Claws Brushing your pup's coat daily will help them get used to grooming, but talk to your vet about the right brush and frequency for your dog's breed. You'll also want to keep the nails short, as too-long nails can put stress on a dog's wrist joints, as well as damage people and furniture. Trim nail tips weekly, and start while your pup is young so they'll be comfortable with clipping early on. Ask your vet to show you proper technique.
Food Harmful to Your Puppy Of course you love sharing, but feeding your puppy from your plate is a bad idea. First, it can make your little one a beggar -- a habit that's hard to break! Another reason is that some foods can be toxic to pets, including grapes, raisins, tea, alcohol, garlic, onions, avocados, salt, and chocolate. Call the Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 or your veterinarian right away if you think your pup has eaten something dangerous. Click here For a List of Foods Toxic to Dogs.
A Note About Chocolate - Chocolate's danger to dogs comes from how slowly they metabolize theobromine, one of its components. Though a little chocolate won't hurt, a dog's tendency to devour the food in front of them means you should always keep chocolatey things safely out of your puppy or dog's reach. Always call the Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 or your veterinarian right away if you think your puppy has eaten something dangerous.
Plants Harmful to Your Puppy Remember, puppies like to chew on just about everything -- including yard and house plants. Some of these plants can be harmful to your furry friend, including lily of the valley, oleander, azalea, yew, foxglove, rhododendron, rhubarb leaves, and shamrock. If you think your puppy has eaten a poisonous plant, call your veterinarian right away or the Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.
6-9 Weeks Old: Time for Vaccines. Vaccinations can really help your puppy stay in tip-top shape. At 6-9 weeks it's time to get them vaccinated against distemper, parainfluenza, canine hepatitis, and the potentially deadly parvovirus. At 12-16 weeks it's also vital to get your puppy immunized against rabies. While there are more vaccine options, these depend on your puppy's exposure risks, so talk to veterinarian about a sensible vaccination schedule for your little one.
Foiling Fleas On Fido It takes just one flea to start the flea cycle in your home. Signs your puppy may have fleas include: flea "dirt" (tiny black flea droppings), mild redness, severe scratching, and skin infections. To combat fleas, ask your veterinarian to suggest a flea control made expressly for puppies; some even contain medication to prevent heartworms. Always treat all pets in the house for fleas, not just the one that may have them.
What About Intestinal Parasites? Your puppy will probably need deworming medication at their first vet visit. This is a good idea for your puppy's health, and also because some canine parasites, like roundworm, can pass to humans, causing disease and infection. Though they show few symptoms, nearly all puppies have roundworms. Hookworms, voracious blood-eating parasites, are potentially deadly to your pup. Talk to your vet to learn more.
16-20 Weeks Old: Spay or Neuter So that you won't add to the more than 6 million dogs and cats finding their way into shelters every year, it's a great idea to spay or neuter your puppy. Spaying can be done as early as two months, but most vets wait between four and six months, just before many dogs become sexually mature. If cost is a problem, call your local humane society or shelter, or call toll-free (800) 248-SPAY to find a low-cost spay program near you.
How to Tell When Your Puppy Is Sick Dogs often won't show it when they're feeling ill, doing their best to remain social when their people are around. That's why it's important you know the signs of illness in puppies and dogs. These can include not eating, eating less, lethargy, vomiting, fever, loose stool, diarrhea, or sleeping a lot more. If you see any of these signs, call your veterinarian.
Tips for Picking a Vet Just like you did when looking for a family physician, it's a great idea to ask friends for recommendations when looking for a veterinarian. Once you have a few choices, visit each clinic. You want one that's well-managed and looks and smells clean. The vet should listen to you and answer questions clearly. Does the vet like dogs? Is the staff friendly? Just as with your own doctor, be sure you feel comfortable with the vet you choose.
Enjoy the Journey! Puppies don't stay little for long! Be sure you're there for it all and make every day count for you and your little one with plenty of love, appropriate discipline, and play!
Before bringing home a puppy, get to know yourself a little better. Why do you want a dog? Will you have the time, space, and money to care for and play with your pup? Which breed do you want? Know the answers before you start looking because "once you look, you are going to bring home a puppy!" says Carrie Damewood, DVM, an Oregon veterinarian. You want to make sure your choice is a good fit because a dog is meant for life -- the dog's life.
Tips for Adopting a Puppy
You've got a lot of options when choosing a puppy:
Shelters, breeders, rescue groups.
Because there are millions of homeless pets, it's a great idea to adopt from a shelter or breed rescue group. We offer a rescue program for Dogs. You can visit our rescue information page if you want to find a rescue pet.
Preparing for Your Puppy's Arrival You'll need a few things before you bring home your new pup. This includes puppy food; a leash and a collar with identifying tags that include your phone number and your vet's number; water and food bowls; a place for your puppy to sleep; brushes for grooming; a folding gate to confine your puppy to one area; pee pads or newspaper; and of course lots of chew toys for your new four-legged friend.
Puppy-Proofing the House Like babies, puppies explore with their mouths. To keep your pup safe you'll need to follow some precautions before bringing your puppy home. This includes: Removing breakables; be sure your puppy can't reach electrical cords that will be chewed; keep low windows closed. Also lock away motor oil, antifreeze, and kitchen and garage cleaning supplies, as well as drugs of all kinds. Trash that is dangerous to puppies should be tossed into a tall garbage can that your puppy can't reach.
Do Puppies Need Puppy Food? Puppies really do need food specially designed for their smaller bodies, says Linda P. Case, co-author of Canine and Feline Nutrition. That's because a growing puppy needs more protein and calories than an adult dog, and a puppy's smaller mouth and weaker jaw requires a kibble made for their chewing ability. We highly recommend Royal Canin puppy Food that is specially formulated for Puppies growing needs and was developed by a Vet. Don't forget that puppies also need plenty of fresh, clean water.
How Much Food Does Puppy Need? Dogs are "what we call voracious eaters" says Case, and will eat a lot if the food is available. For this reason it's a good idea to avoid feeding your puppy buffet-style. Another reason is so you can watch your pup eat -- because, this is a good way to keep tabs on your fuzzy friend's health. How much food a puppy needs depends on its breed; use the suggestions on the pet food as a starting point, but know that some pups need less than recommended, and others may need more.
Dog Beds and Crates Puppies may sleep from 14 to 20 hours a day, so keeping them comfortable while they snooze is important. For bonding, many experts suggest that your puppy sleep in your bedroom at first, whether in their own bed or a crate. If you use a crate, use it only for sleeping, housebreaking, and travel. Dogs aren't meant to live in crates, so experts suggest using a crate judiciously.
Inside or Outside? You'll need to decide if your pup will be an indoor or outdoor dog. Dogs are pack animals and do best when they're with their pack -- which is You. If you keep your dog outdoors often, make that adjustment slowly, and always make time for daily walks and play. A fenced yard is vital to keeping your dog safe, and be sure the yard has an enclosed, dry, draft-free spot to keep your dog warm, as well as a shaded area to keep them cool. And don't forget to make plenty of fresh water available.
Bringing Your Puppy Home Your puppy's first days in their new home are scary, so give them lots of loving attention. Play with them often, and bring your puppy's bed or crate into your bedroom at night, so they can be near you. Soon after your puppy settles in, schedule their first vet visit. This visit is important, says Damewood. "We'll make sure there's no health problems with your new friend, and we'll talk about nutrition, housebreaking, and what to expect from your puppy.'
Tips on Housebreaking a Puppy Your puppy doesn't want to make a mess where they live, so it's up to you to show them the right thing to do. Two signs your pup needs to potty: (1) Sniffing the ground to find a likely spot, and/or (2) racing around frantically. When you see this behavior, pick your puppy up and place the little one on a newspaper, pee pad or outside. After your puppy has peed in the right place, offer praise or a treat. Puppies relieve themselves every few hours, so expect accidents along the way!
Obedience and Training "I recommend every puppy go to obedience classes," says Damewood, "even if you can teach them yourself, the puppy will benefit from the social side of classes, they'll get to work things out when there's chaos around, and most importantly it'll help you stay on track and do your homework." With a little time, kindness, and patience, you can teach your rambunctious, rough-and-tumble puppy what good behavior is.
The Importance of Play Ask any puppy and they'll tell you: Playing is fun! Devoting time daily to playing with your pup helps them in many ways: They expend energy, satisfy their inquisitive nature, develop physical coordination and importantly, bond with you. When you play, use toys as toys, not your puppy's leash, your hands, or anything else you don't want your puppy to grow up thinking of as quarry.
Walking Your Puppy Even if your puppy has a great yard, you'll need to take your little one for walks -- and this holds true once they're grown, too. Walks give dogs exercise and mental stimulation, let them interact with other dogs met along the way, and allow them to leave scent markings, which can be important for a male dog's sense of self. Aim for no less than 60 minutes daily, broken into two to four walks.
Keeping Kids and Puppies Safe They can look as cuddly and soft as teddy bears, but puppies aren't toys. As much as kids and canines love to play together, a young dog is still learning the ropes and may respond to rough-housing, well, roughly. There's also the chance that energetic kids could play too hard with their still-growing pup. The solution is to supervise puppies and children at all times so that they both stay safe.
Caring for Puppy's Coat and Claws Brushing your pup's coat daily will help them get used to grooming, but talk to your vet about the right brush and frequency for your dog's breed. You'll also want to keep the nails short, as too-long nails can put stress on a dog's wrist joints, as well as damage people and furniture. Trim nail tips weekly, and start while your pup is young so they'll be comfortable with clipping early on. Ask your vet to show you proper technique.
Food Harmful to Your Puppy Of course you love sharing, but feeding your puppy from your plate is a bad idea. First, it can make your little one a beggar -- a habit that's hard to break! Another reason is that some foods can be toxic to pets, including grapes, raisins, tea, alcohol, garlic, onions, avocados, salt, and chocolate. Call the Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 or your veterinarian right away if you think your pup has eaten something dangerous. Click here For a List of Foods Toxic to Dogs.
A Note About Chocolate - Chocolate's danger to dogs comes from how slowly they metabolize theobromine, one of its components. Though a little chocolate won't hurt, a dog's tendency to devour the food in front of them means you should always keep chocolatey things safely out of your puppy or dog's reach. Always call the Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 or your veterinarian right away if you think your puppy has eaten something dangerous.
Plants Harmful to Your Puppy Remember, puppies like to chew on just about everything -- including yard and house plants. Some of these plants can be harmful to your furry friend, including lily of the valley, oleander, azalea, yew, foxglove, rhododendron, rhubarb leaves, and shamrock. If you think your puppy has eaten a poisonous plant, call your veterinarian right away or the Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.
6-9 Weeks Old: Time for Vaccines. Vaccinations can really help your puppy stay in tip-top shape. At 6-9 weeks it's time to get them vaccinated against distemper, parainfluenza, canine hepatitis, and the potentially deadly parvovirus. At 12-16 weeks it's also vital to get your puppy immunized against rabies. While there are more vaccine options, these depend on your puppy's exposure risks, so talk to veterinarian about a sensible vaccination schedule for your little one.
Foiling Fleas On Fido It takes just one flea to start the flea cycle in your home. Signs your puppy may have fleas include: flea "dirt" (tiny black flea droppings), mild redness, severe scratching, and skin infections. To combat fleas, ask your veterinarian to suggest a flea control made expressly for puppies; some even contain medication to prevent heartworms. Always treat all pets in the house for fleas, not just the one that may have them.
What About Intestinal Parasites? Your puppy will probably need deworming medication at their first vet visit. This is a good idea for your puppy's health, and also because some canine parasites, like roundworm, can pass to humans, causing disease and infection. Though they show few symptoms, nearly all puppies have roundworms. Hookworms, voracious blood-eating parasites, are potentially deadly to your pup. Talk to your vet to learn more.
16-20 Weeks Old: Spay or Neuter So that you won't add to the more than 6 million dogs and cats finding their way into shelters every year, it's a great idea to spay or neuter your puppy. Spaying can be done as early as two months, but most vets wait between four and six months, just before many dogs become sexually mature. If cost is a problem, call your local humane society or shelter, or call toll-free (800) 248-SPAY to find a low-cost spay program near you.
How to Tell When Your Puppy Is Sick Dogs often won't show it when they're feeling ill, doing their best to remain social when their people are around. That's why it's important you know the signs of illness in puppies and dogs. These can include not eating, eating less, lethargy, vomiting, fever, loose stool, diarrhea, or sleeping a lot more. If you see any of these signs, call your veterinarian.
Tips for Picking a Vet Just like you did when looking for a family physician, it's a great idea to ask friends for recommendations when looking for a veterinarian. Once you have a few choices, visit each clinic. You want one that's well-managed and looks and smells clean. The vet should listen to you and answer questions clearly. Does the vet like dogs? Is the staff friendly? Just as with your own doctor, be sure you feel comfortable with the vet you choose.
Enjoy the Journey! Puppies don't stay little for long! Be sure you're there for it all and make every day count for you and your little one with plenty of love, appropriate discipline, and play!
Puppy Mouthing - Puppy Chewing and Biting
Puppies spend a great deal of time playing, chewing and investigating objects. All of these normal activities involve puppies using their mouths and their needle-sharp teeth. When puppies play with people, they often bite, chew and mouth on people’s hands, limbs and clothing. This kind of behavior may seem cute when your puppy is seven weeks old, but it’s not nearly so endearing when he’s three or four months old—and getting bigger by the day!
What to Do About Puppy Mouthing It’s important to help your puppy learn to curb his mouthy behavior. There are various ways, some better than others, to teach this lesson. The ultimate goal is to train your puppy to stop mouthing and biting people altogether. However, the first and most important objective is to teach him that people have very sensitive skin, so he must be very gentle when using his mouth.
Bite Inhibition: Teach Your Puppy to Be Gentle Bite inhibition refers to a dog’s ability to control the force of his mouthing. A puppy or dog who hasn’t learned bite inhibition with people doesn’t recognize the sensitivity of human skin, and so he bites too hard, even in play. Some behaviorists and trainers believe that a dog who has learned to use his mouth gently when interacting with people will be less likely to bite hard and break skin if he ever bites someone in a situation apart from play—like when he’s afraid or in pain.
Puppies usually learn bite inhibition during play with other puppies. If you watch a group of puppies playing, you’ll see plenty of chasing, pouncing and wrestling. Puppies also bite each other all over. Every now and then, a pup will bite his playmate too hard. The victim of the painful bite yelps and usually stops playing. The offender is often taken aback by the yelp and also stops playing for a moment. However, pretty soon, both playmates are back in the game. Through this kind of interaction, puppies learn to control the intensity of their bites so that no one gets hurt and the play can continue without interruption. If puppies can learn how to be gentle from each other, they can also learn the same lesson from people.
When you play with your puppy, let him mouth on your hands. Continue play until he bites especially hard. When he does, immediately give a high-pitched yelp, as if you’re hurt, and let your hand go limp. This should startle your puppy and cause him to stop mouthing you, at least momentarily. (If yelping seems to have no effect, you can say “Too bad!” or “You blew it!” in a stern voice instead.) Praise your puppy for stopping or for licking you. Resume whatever you were doing before. If your puppy bites you hard again, yelp again. Repeat these steps no more than three times within a 15-minute period. If you find that yelping alone doesn’t work, you can switch to a time-out procedure. Time-outs are often very effective for curbing mouthing in puppies. When your puppy delivers a hard bite, yelp loudly. Then, when he startles and turns to look at you or looks around, remove your hand. Either ignore him for 10 to 20 seconds or, if he starts mouthing on you again, get up and move away for 10 to 20 seconds. After the short time-out, return to your puppy and encourage him to play with you again. It’s important to teach him that gentle play continues, but painful play stops. Play with your puppy until he bites hard again. When he does, repeat the sequence above. When your puppy isn’t delivering really hard bites anymore, you can tighten up your rules a little. Require your puppy to be even gentler. Yelp and stop play in response to moderately hard bites. Persist with this process of yelping and then ignoring your puppy or giving him a time-out for his hardest bites. As those disappear, do the same for his next-hardest bites, and so on, until your puppy can play with your hands very gently, controlling the force of his mouthing so that you feel little or no pressure at all.
What to Do Next: Teach Your Puppy That Teeth Don’t Belong on Human Skin
General Precautions
Puppy “Temper Tantrums” Puppies sometimes have temper tantrums. Usually tantrums happen when you’re making a puppy do something he doesn’t like. Something as benign as simply holding your puppy still or handling his body might upset him. Tantrums can also happen when play escalates. (Even human “puppies” can have tantrums during play when they get overexcited or upset!) A puppy temper tantrum is more serious than playful mouthing, but it isn’t always easy to tell the difference between the two. In most cases, a playful puppy will have a relaxed body and face. His muzzle might look wrinkled, but you won’t see a lot of tension in his facial muscles. If your puppy has a temper tantrum, his body might look very stiff or frozen. He might pull his lips back to expose his teeth or growl. Almost always, his bites will be much more painful than normal mouthing during play.
If you’re holding or handling your puppy and he starts to throw a temper tantrum, avoid yelping like you’re hurt. Doing that might actually cause your puppy to continue or intensify his aggressive behavior. Instead, be very calm and unemotional. Don’t hurt your puppy, but continue to hold him firmly without constriction, if possible, until he stops struggling. After he’s quieted down for just a second or two, let him go. Then make plans to contact a qualified professional for help. Repeated bouts of biting in frustration are not something that the puppy will simply grow out of, so your puppy’s behavior should be assessed and resolved as soon as possible.
These quick tips can be useful:
Instructions on Stopping Puppies from Biting
When and Where to Get Help A trained professional can help you determine whether or not your puppy’s mouthing is normal, and she or he can guide you through an effective treatment plan. If you suspect that your puppy’s biting fits the description of aggressive or fearful behavior, please seek consultation with a qualified professional, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior (Dip ACVB). If you can’t find a behaviorist in your area, you can seek help from a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT)—but be sure to determine whether she or he has professional training and experience in successfully treating fear and aggression problems, as this expertise isn’t required for CPDT certification. Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate one of these professionals in your area.
What to Do About Puppy Mouthing It’s important to help your puppy learn to curb his mouthy behavior. There are various ways, some better than others, to teach this lesson. The ultimate goal is to train your puppy to stop mouthing and biting people altogether. However, the first and most important objective is to teach him that people have very sensitive skin, so he must be very gentle when using his mouth.
Bite Inhibition: Teach Your Puppy to Be Gentle Bite inhibition refers to a dog’s ability to control the force of his mouthing. A puppy or dog who hasn’t learned bite inhibition with people doesn’t recognize the sensitivity of human skin, and so he bites too hard, even in play. Some behaviorists and trainers believe that a dog who has learned to use his mouth gently when interacting with people will be less likely to bite hard and break skin if he ever bites someone in a situation apart from play—like when he’s afraid or in pain.
Puppies usually learn bite inhibition during play with other puppies. If you watch a group of puppies playing, you’ll see plenty of chasing, pouncing and wrestling. Puppies also bite each other all over. Every now and then, a pup will bite his playmate too hard. The victim of the painful bite yelps and usually stops playing. The offender is often taken aback by the yelp and also stops playing for a moment. However, pretty soon, both playmates are back in the game. Through this kind of interaction, puppies learn to control the intensity of their bites so that no one gets hurt and the play can continue without interruption. If puppies can learn how to be gentle from each other, they can also learn the same lesson from people.
When you play with your puppy, let him mouth on your hands. Continue play until he bites especially hard. When he does, immediately give a high-pitched yelp, as if you’re hurt, and let your hand go limp. This should startle your puppy and cause him to stop mouthing you, at least momentarily. (If yelping seems to have no effect, you can say “Too bad!” or “You blew it!” in a stern voice instead.) Praise your puppy for stopping or for licking you. Resume whatever you were doing before. If your puppy bites you hard again, yelp again. Repeat these steps no more than three times within a 15-minute period. If you find that yelping alone doesn’t work, you can switch to a time-out procedure. Time-outs are often very effective for curbing mouthing in puppies. When your puppy delivers a hard bite, yelp loudly. Then, when he startles and turns to look at you or looks around, remove your hand. Either ignore him for 10 to 20 seconds or, if he starts mouthing on you again, get up and move away for 10 to 20 seconds. After the short time-out, return to your puppy and encourage him to play with you again. It’s important to teach him that gentle play continues, but painful play stops. Play with your puppy until he bites hard again. When he does, repeat the sequence above. When your puppy isn’t delivering really hard bites anymore, you can tighten up your rules a little. Require your puppy to be even gentler. Yelp and stop play in response to moderately hard bites. Persist with this process of yelping and then ignoring your puppy or giving him a time-out for his hardest bites. As those disappear, do the same for his next-hardest bites, and so on, until your puppy can play with your hands very gently, controlling the force of his mouthing so that you feel little or no pressure at all.
What to Do Next: Teach Your Puppy That Teeth Don’t Belong on Human Skin
- Substitute a toy or chew bone when your puppy tries to gnaw on fingers or toes.
- Puppies often mouth on people’s hands when stroked, patted and scratched (unless they’re sleepy or distracted). If your puppy gets all riled up when you pet him, distract him by feeding him small treats from your other hand. This will help your puppy get used to being touched without mouthing.
- Encourage noncontact forms of play, such as fetch and tug-of-war, rather than wrestling and rough play with your hands. (Refer to our article, Teaching your Dog to Play Fetch, to learn more about this game.) To keep tug-of-war safe and fun for you and your puppy, you’ll need to follow strict rules. Please see our article, Teaching Your Dog to Play Tug-of-War, for detailed guidelines. Once your puppy can play tug safely, keep tug toys in your pocket or have them easily accessible. If he starts to mouth you, you can immediately redirect him to the tug toy. Ideally, he’ll start to anticipate and look for a toy when he feels like mouthing.
- If your puppy bites at your feet and ankles, carry his favorite tug toy in your pocket. Whenever he ambushes you, instantly stop moving your feet. Take out the tug toy and wave it enticingly. When your puppy grabs the toy, start moving again. If you don’t happen to have the toy available, just freeze and wait for your puppy to stop mouthing you. The second he stops, praise and get a toy to reward him. Repeat these steps until your puppy gets used to watching you move around without going after your feet or ankles.
- Provide plenty of interesting and new toys so that your puppy will play with them instead of gnawing on you or your clothing.
- Provide plenty of opportunities for your puppy to play with other puppies and with friendly, vaccinated adult dogs. Playing and socializing with dog buddies is important for your puppy’s development—and if he expends a lot of his energy playing with other puppies, he’ll feel less motivated to play roughly with you. Consider enrolling your puppy in a good puppy class, where he can have supervised playtime with other puppies and learn some important new skills! Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) in your area who offers puppy classes.
- Use a time-out procedure, just like the one described above—but change the rules a little. Instead of giving your puppy time-outs for hard biting, start to give him time-outs every time you feel his teeth touch your skin.
- The instant you feel your puppy’s teeth touch you, give a high-pitched yelp. Then immediately walk away from him. Ignore him for 30 to 60 seconds. If your puppy follows you or continues to bite and nip at you, leave the room for 30 to 60 seconds. (Be sure that the room is “puppy-proofed” before you leave your puppy alone in it. Don’t leave him in an area with things he might destroy or things that might hurt him.) After the brief time-out, return to the room and calmly resume whatever you were doing with your puppy.
- Alternatively, you can keep a leash attached to your puppy during time-out training and let it drag on the floor when you’re there to supervise him. Then, instead of leaving the room when your puppy mouths you, you can take hold of his leash and lead him to a quiet area, tether him, and turn your back to him for the brief time-out. Then untie him and resume whatever you were doing.
- If a time-out isn’t viable or effective, consider using a taste deterrent, such as Grannick’s Bitter Apple®. (For more information on taste deterrents and how to use them, please see our article, Using Taste Deterrents.) Spray areas of your body and clothing that your puppy likes to mouth before you start interacting with him. If he mouths you or your clothing, stop moving and wait for him to react to the bad taste of the deterrent. Praise him lavishly when he lets go of you. Apply the bad taste to your body and clothes for at least two weeks. After two weeks of being punished by the bitter taste every time he mouths you, your puppy will likely learn to inhibit his mouthy behavior.
- Be patient and understanding. Playful mouthing is normal behavior for a puppy or young dog.
General Precautions
- Avoid waving your fingers or toes in your puppy’s face or slapping the sides of his face to entice him to play. Doing these things can actually encourage your puppy to bite your hands and feet.
- Do not discourage your puppy from playing with you in general. Play builds a strong bond between a dog and his human family. You want to teach your puppy to play gently, rather than not at all.
- Avoid jerking your hands or feet away from your puppy when he mouths. This will encourage him to jump forward and grab at you. It’s much more effective to let your hands or feet go limp so that they aren’t much fun to play with.
- Slapping or hitting puppies for playful mouthing can cause them to bite harder. They usually react by playing more aggressively. Physical punishment can also make your puppy afraid of you—and it can even cause real aggression. Avoid scruff shaking, whacking your puppy on the nose, sticking your fingers down his throat and all other punishments that might hurt or scare him.
Puppy “Temper Tantrums” Puppies sometimes have temper tantrums. Usually tantrums happen when you’re making a puppy do something he doesn’t like. Something as benign as simply holding your puppy still or handling his body might upset him. Tantrums can also happen when play escalates. (Even human “puppies” can have tantrums during play when they get overexcited or upset!) A puppy temper tantrum is more serious than playful mouthing, but it isn’t always easy to tell the difference between the two. In most cases, a playful puppy will have a relaxed body and face. His muzzle might look wrinkled, but you won’t see a lot of tension in his facial muscles. If your puppy has a temper tantrum, his body might look very stiff or frozen. He might pull his lips back to expose his teeth or growl. Almost always, his bites will be much more painful than normal mouthing during play.
If you’re holding or handling your puppy and he starts to throw a temper tantrum, avoid yelping like you’re hurt. Doing that might actually cause your puppy to continue or intensify his aggressive behavior. Instead, be very calm and unemotional. Don’t hurt your puppy, but continue to hold him firmly without constriction, if possible, until he stops struggling. After he’s quieted down for just a second or two, let him go. Then make plans to contact a qualified professional for help. Repeated bouts of biting in frustration are not something that the puppy will simply grow out of, so your puppy’s behavior should be assessed and resolved as soon as possible.
These quick tips can be useful:
Instructions on Stopping Puppies from Biting
- Step 1:Give your puppy plenty of chew toys to play with. Praise your puppy each time he chews on these toys instead of biting you; this lets him know what he is permitted to chew on.
- Step 2:Put a toy in her mouth anytime she tries to chew on you. If she chews on your hand, for example, say, "No bite," and replace your hand with a toy. Praise her when she chews on the toy.
- Step 3:Get up and walk away. Walking away when your puppy bites you tells your puppy that biting is not acceptable and playtime is over.
- Step 1:Make your puppy's crate comfortable and comforting. Puppies generally do not enjoy being placed in crates and may take a few nights to adjust. Place pillows, chew toys and stuffed animals inside the crate.
- Step 2:Praise your puppy when she is quiet. Pet her, play with her and talk to her to let her know that being quiet is good behavior.
- Step 3:Ignore your puppy. Giving your puppy any attention when he is whining simply reinforces the whining. Your puppy whines to get your attention. If you give it to him, he's succeeded and thinks that if he does it again he'll be successful again.
- Step 4:Ensure that your puppy has water and does not need to go out.
- Crate your puppy when you cannot supervise him. Your puppy can tear up your furniture or hurt himself if you are not watching him.
- Hide all pieces of clothing and other valuables that you do not want to be chewed while your puppy is teething.
- Take your puppy to a vet if he continues to whine. Whining can also be a sign of pain.
- Do not physically reprimand or use negative punishment. Puppies learn from positive reinforcement, and will only develop aggressive and fear-related issues later if they are hit or negatively punished.
When and Where to Get Help A trained professional can help you determine whether or not your puppy’s mouthing is normal, and she or he can guide you through an effective treatment plan. If you suspect that your puppy’s biting fits the description of aggressive or fearful behavior, please seek consultation with a qualified professional, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior (Dip ACVB). If you can’t find a behaviorist in your area, you can seek help from a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT)—but be sure to determine whether she or he has professional training and experience in successfully treating fear and aggression problems, as this expertise isn’t required for CPDT certification. Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate one of these professionals in your area.
If your dog is hacking away or constantly making noises that make it sound like he's choking on something, he may have a case kennel cough, also known as canine infectious tracheobronchitis. Although kennel cough can sound terrible, most of the time it is not a serious condition, and most dogs will recover without treatment. (per WebMd)
Kennel Cough
WHAT IS IT?
“Kennel cough” is an infectious bronchitis characterized by a harsh, hacking cough which most people describe as sounding like “something stuck in my dog’s throat.” It is analogous to a chest cold for humans and is only a serious condition in special circumstances (see below); in general, it resolves on its own. A dog with Kennel Cough generally feels active and maintains a normal appetite despite frequent fits of coughing. There is usually no fever or listlessness, just lots of coughing.
NOT SURE WHAT A COUGHING DOG SOUNDS LIKE?
Dogs can make an assortment of respiratory sounds. Usually a cough is very recognizable but it is important to be aware of another sound called a “reverse sneeze.” The reverse sneeze is often mistaken for a cough, for a choking fit, for sneezing, for retching, or even for gasping for breath. In fact, the reverse sneeze represents a post-nasal drip or “tickle in the throat.” It is considered normal especially for small dogs or dogs and only requires attention if it is felt to be “excessive.” The point here is to know a cough when you see one. A cough can be dry or “productive,” meaning it is followed by a gag, swallowing motion, production of foamy mucus (not to be confused with vomiting). Here are some videos that might help:
COUGHING DOG (WITH PRODUCTIVE COUGH):
REVERSE SNEEZING DOG:
A coughing dog that has a poor appetite, fever, and/or listlessness should be evaluated for pneumonia.
HOW INFECTION OCCURS?
The infected dog sheds infectious bacteria and/or viruses in respiratory secretions. These secretions become aerosolized and float in the air to be inhaled by a healthy dog.
The normal respiratory tract has substantial safeguards against invading infectious agents. The most important of these is probably what is called the “mucociliary escalator.” This safeguard consists of tiny hair-like structures called “cilia”, which protrude from the cells lining the respiratory tract, and extend into a coat of mucus over them. The cilia beat in a coordinated fashion through the lower and more watery mucus layer called the “sol.” A thicker mucus layer called the “gel” floats on top of the sol. Debris, including infectious agents, get trapped in the sticky gel and the cilia move them upward towards the throat where the collection of debris and mucus may be coughed up and/or swallowed.
The mucociliary escalator is damaged by the following:
Bordetella bronchiseptica organisms have some tricks of their own as well:
MEMBERS OF THE “KENNEL COUGH” COMPLEX
Classically, dogs get infected when they are kept in a crowded situation with poor air circulation but lots of warm air (i.e. a boarding kennel, vaccination clinic, obedience class, local park, animal shelter, animal hospital waiting room, or grooming parlor). In reality, most causes of coughing that begin acutely in the dog are due to infectious causes and usually represent some form of Kennel Cough.
THE INCUBATION PERIOD IS 2 - 14 DAYS
HOW IS DIAGNOSIS MADE?
Usually the history of exposure to a crowd of dogs within the proper time frame plus typical examination findings (coughing dog that otherwise feels well) is adequate to make the diagnosis. Radiographs show bronchitis, though severe cases can progress to pneumonia, especially if the canine distemper virus is involved.
HOW CONTAGIOUS IS IT?
Bordetella infection can be picked up by rabbits, guinea pigs, pigs, cats (if they are very young and housed in groups), and other dogs. Bordetella is generally not considered contagious to humans though it is closely related to Bordetella pertussis, the agent of Whooping Cough. Immune-suppressed humans potentially could be infected.
Among dogs Kennel Cough is fairly contagious depending on stress level, vaccination status, and exposure to minor viruses. Dogs shed Bordetella organisms for up to 3 months after infection.
Our hospital recommends keeping all dogs current on their Bordetella vaccinations
as you never know when they will be in an unexpected situation.
HOW IS KENNEL COUGH TREATED?
Although most cases will go away on their own, we like to think we can hasten recovery with antibiotics to directly kill the Bordetella organism. Alternatively, Kennel Cough may be treated with cough suppressants to provide comfort during natural recovery. Alternatively, antibiotics and cough suppressants can be combined.
WHEN IS IT A SERIOUS CONDITION?
Very young puppies. Similar to young humans, young puppies still have deveIoping immune systems and are more susceptible to kennel cough than adult dogs. Should you have a puppy who is diagnosed with kennel cough your vet should prescribe antibiotics. A case of kennel cough in a puppy that goes untreated may progress to pneumonia which can be a serious condition.
VACCINATION OPTIONS:
There are basically two options for Kennel cough vaccination: injectable and intranasal. It is important to realize that not all members of the Kennel Cough complex have a vaccine. Also, because Kennel Cough is a localized infection (meaning it is local to the respiratory tract), it is an infection that does not lend itself to prevention by vaccination. Vaccination must be regularly boosted and often vaccination simply muffles the severity of infection without completely preventing it.
INJECTABLE VACCINE
Injectable vaccination is a good choice for aggressive dogs, who may bite if their muzzle is approached. For puppies, injectable vaccination provides good systemic immunity as long as two doses are given (approximately one month apart) after age 4 months. Boosters are generally given annually.
There is some controversy over whether previously vaccinated dogs generate
better immunity receiving injectable or nasal boosters for Kennel Cough.
Parainfluenza, Adenovirus type 2, and canine distemper, all members of the Kennel Cough complex, are all covered by the standard DHLPP vaccine, the basic vaccine for dogs. Adenovirus Type 2 serum also immunizes against Adenovirus Type 1, the agent of infectious canine hepatitis.
NASAL VACCINE
Intranasal vaccination may be given as early as 3 weeks of age and immunity generally lasts 10-12 months. (Usually this vaccine is also boosted annually.) The advantage here is that the local immunity is stimulated, right at the site where the natural infection would be trying to take hold.
It takes 4 days to generate a solid immune response after intranasal vaccination so it is best if vaccination is given at least 4 days prior to the exposure. Some dogs will have some sneezing or nasal discharge in the week following intranasal vaccination. As a general rule, nasal vaccination provides faster immunity than injectable vaccination.
VACCINATION IS NOT USEFUL IN A DOG
ALREADY INCUBATING KENNEL COUGH.
IF BOARDING IS PLANNED AND THERE HAS BEEN MORE
THAN 6 MONTHS THAT HAVE PASSED
SINCE THE LAST BOOSTER SHOT,
IDEALLY THE VACCINE SHOULD BE BOOSTED
5 DAYS OR MORE BEFORE THE START OF BOARDING.
WHAT IF KENNEL COUGH DOESN’T IMPROVE?
As previously noted, this infection is generally self-limiting. It should be at least improved partially after one week of treatment. If no improvement has been observed in this time, a re-check exam (possibly including radiographs of the chest) would be a good idea. Failure of Kennel Cough to resolve suggests an underlying condition. Kennel Cough can activate a previously asymptomatic collapsing trachea or the condition may have progressed to pneumonia. There is also another respiratory infection called Canine Influenza, which seemed to be a racing greyhound issue exclusively until late 2005. This infection produces fever and pneumonia but starts looking like a routine Kennel Cough. This particular infection is much more severe, highly contagious, but for now seems to be uncommon.
If you have questions about a coughing dog, do not hesitate to bring them to your veterinarian, or click “contact us”
“Kennel cough” is an infectious bronchitis characterized by a harsh, hacking cough which most people describe as sounding like “something stuck in my dog’s throat.” It is analogous to a chest cold for humans and is only a serious condition in special circumstances (see below); in general, it resolves on its own. A dog with Kennel Cough generally feels active and maintains a normal appetite despite frequent fits of coughing. There is usually no fever or listlessness, just lots of coughing.
NOT SURE WHAT A COUGHING DOG SOUNDS LIKE?
Dogs can make an assortment of respiratory sounds. Usually a cough is very recognizable but it is important to be aware of another sound called a “reverse sneeze.” The reverse sneeze is often mistaken for a cough, for a choking fit, for sneezing, for retching, or even for gasping for breath. In fact, the reverse sneeze represents a post-nasal drip or “tickle in the throat.” It is considered normal especially for small dogs or dogs and only requires attention if it is felt to be “excessive.” The point here is to know a cough when you see one. A cough can be dry or “productive,” meaning it is followed by a gag, swallowing motion, production of foamy mucus (not to be confused with vomiting). Here are some videos that might help:
COUGHING DOG (WITH PRODUCTIVE COUGH):
REVERSE SNEEZING DOG:
A coughing dog that has a poor appetite, fever, and/or listlessness should be evaluated for pneumonia.
HOW INFECTION OCCURS?
The infected dog sheds infectious bacteria and/or viruses in respiratory secretions. These secretions become aerosolized and float in the air to be inhaled by a healthy dog.
The normal respiratory tract has substantial safeguards against invading infectious agents. The most important of these is probably what is called the “mucociliary escalator.” This safeguard consists of tiny hair-like structures called “cilia”, which protrude from the cells lining the respiratory tract, and extend into a coat of mucus over them. The cilia beat in a coordinated fashion through the lower and more watery mucus layer called the “sol.” A thicker mucus layer called the “gel” floats on top of the sol. Debris, including infectious agents, get trapped in the sticky gel and the cilia move them upward towards the throat where the collection of debris and mucus may be coughed up and/or swallowed.
The mucociliary escalator is damaged by the following:
- shipping stress
- crowding stress
- heavy dust exposure
- cigarette smoke exposure
- infectious agents (viruses such as reovirus, adenovirus, parainfluenza virus, and even the distemper virus can be initiating infections).
- Cold temperature
- Poor ventilation
Bordetella bronchiseptica organisms have some tricks of their own as well:
- They are able to bind directly to cilia, rendering them unable to move within 3 hours of contact.
- They secrete substances that disable the immune cells normally responsible for consuming & destroying bacteria
MEMBERS OF THE “KENNEL COUGH” COMPLEX
- Parainfluenza virus
- Canine Adenovirus type 2
- Canine Distemper Virus
- Canine Herpesvirus
- Canine Reovirus (type 1, 2, or 3)
Classically, dogs get infected when they are kept in a crowded situation with poor air circulation but lots of warm air (i.e. a boarding kennel, vaccination clinic, obedience class, local park, animal shelter, animal hospital waiting room, or grooming parlor). In reality, most causes of coughing that begin acutely in the dog are due to infectious causes and usually represent some form of Kennel Cough.
THE INCUBATION PERIOD IS 2 - 14 DAYS
HOW IS DIAGNOSIS MADE?
Usually the history of exposure to a crowd of dogs within the proper time frame plus typical examination findings (coughing dog that otherwise feels well) is adequate to make the diagnosis. Radiographs show bronchitis, though severe cases can progress to pneumonia, especially if the canine distemper virus is involved.
HOW CONTAGIOUS IS IT?
Bordetella infection can be picked up by rabbits, guinea pigs, pigs, cats (if they are very young and housed in groups), and other dogs. Bordetella is generally not considered contagious to humans though it is closely related to Bordetella pertussis, the agent of Whooping Cough. Immune-suppressed humans potentially could be infected.
Among dogs Kennel Cough is fairly contagious depending on stress level, vaccination status, and exposure to minor viruses. Dogs shed Bordetella organisms for up to 3 months after infection.
Our hospital recommends keeping all dogs current on their Bordetella vaccinations
as you never know when they will be in an unexpected situation.
HOW IS KENNEL COUGH TREATED?
Although most cases will go away on their own, we like to think we can hasten recovery with antibiotics to directly kill the Bordetella organism. Alternatively, Kennel Cough may be treated with cough suppressants to provide comfort during natural recovery. Alternatively, antibiotics and cough suppressants can be combined.
WHEN IS IT A SERIOUS CONDITION?
Very young puppies. Similar to young humans, young puppies still have deveIoping immune systems and are more susceptible to kennel cough than adult dogs. Should you have a puppy who is diagnosed with kennel cough your vet should prescribe antibiotics. A case of kennel cough in a puppy that goes untreated may progress to pneumonia which can be a serious condition.
VACCINATION OPTIONS:
There are basically two options for Kennel cough vaccination: injectable and intranasal. It is important to realize that not all members of the Kennel Cough complex have a vaccine. Also, because Kennel Cough is a localized infection (meaning it is local to the respiratory tract), it is an infection that does not lend itself to prevention by vaccination. Vaccination must be regularly boosted and often vaccination simply muffles the severity of infection without completely preventing it.
INJECTABLE VACCINE
Injectable vaccination is a good choice for aggressive dogs, who may bite if their muzzle is approached. For puppies, injectable vaccination provides good systemic immunity as long as two doses are given (approximately one month apart) after age 4 months. Boosters are generally given annually.
There is some controversy over whether previously vaccinated dogs generate
better immunity receiving injectable or nasal boosters for Kennel Cough.
Parainfluenza, Adenovirus type 2, and canine distemper, all members of the Kennel Cough complex, are all covered by the standard DHLPP vaccine, the basic vaccine for dogs. Adenovirus Type 2 serum also immunizes against Adenovirus Type 1, the agent of infectious canine hepatitis.
NASAL VACCINE
Intranasal vaccination may be given as early as 3 weeks of age and immunity generally lasts 10-12 months. (Usually this vaccine is also boosted annually.) The advantage here is that the local immunity is stimulated, right at the site where the natural infection would be trying to take hold.
It takes 4 days to generate a solid immune response after intranasal vaccination so it is best if vaccination is given at least 4 days prior to the exposure. Some dogs will have some sneezing or nasal discharge in the week following intranasal vaccination. As a general rule, nasal vaccination provides faster immunity than injectable vaccination.
VACCINATION IS NOT USEFUL IN A DOG
ALREADY INCUBATING KENNEL COUGH.
IF BOARDING IS PLANNED AND THERE HAS BEEN MORE
THAN 6 MONTHS THAT HAVE PASSED
SINCE THE LAST BOOSTER SHOT,
IDEALLY THE VACCINE SHOULD BE BOOSTED
5 DAYS OR MORE BEFORE THE START OF BOARDING.
WHAT IF KENNEL COUGH DOESN’T IMPROVE?
As previously noted, this infection is generally self-limiting. It should be at least improved partially after one week of treatment. If no improvement has been observed in this time, a re-check exam (possibly including radiographs of the chest) would be a good idea. Failure of Kennel Cough to resolve suggests an underlying condition. Kennel Cough can activate a previously asymptomatic collapsing trachea or the condition may have progressed to pneumonia. There is also another respiratory infection called Canine Influenza, which seemed to be a racing greyhound issue exclusively until late 2005. This infection produces fever and pneumonia but starts looking like a routine Kennel Cough. This particular infection is much more severe, highly contagious, but for now seems to be uncommon.
If you have questions about a coughing dog, do not hesitate to bring them to your veterinarian, or click “contact us”
How to Potty Train Puppy - Fast
InstructionsThings You’ll Need:
- Crate
- Collar
- Leash
- Dog treats
- Step 1:Place a crate in a safe, quiet area in your home. It must be big enough to hold the puppy, but small enough so that the puppy can't freely urinate or defecate in one spot and resume playing or sleeping in another. Regular crate use will teach the puppy that it's possible to "hold" its bladder or bowels for a limited amount of time.
- Step 2:Line the crate with a soft blanket and add a chew toy or other treat so the puppy will associate the crate with a positive experience and feel at home in it. Ideally, the puppy will learn to consider the crate its den. Place a comfortable yet secure collar on your puppy and put the puppy in the crate. Leave the puppy in the crate for approximately one to three hours at the most, depending on its age and size. Smaller, younger dogs need to be let out more often.
- Step 3:Let the puppy out of the crate, attach a leash to its collar and take it outdoors after every meal. Your puppy should have plenty of playtime in the house with you and family members during the day, as well, but during the training period, the crate, or den, will serve as its headquarters. Take your time walking with the puppy until it successfully does its business. Immediately reward the puppy with a treat, so it associates the "bathroom break" with positive reinforcement.
- Step 4:Return indoors and place the puppy back into the crate. Add a special treat or chew toy to make it a fun den and not a prison.
- Step 5:Wait another one to three hours and remove the puppy from the crate and take it back outdoors for another restroom break. Reward the puppy with another dog treat as soon as it urinates or defecates.
- Step 6:When you are in the house, try periods of time with the puppy confined in a room with you, and watch it closely. When it seems to be looking for a place or is actively pawing at or whining near the door, immediately attach the leash to its collar and take it outdoors. Reward the puppy with a treat immediately after it does its business outdoors.
- Step 7:Repeat the steps listed above for as long as it takes until the puppy is regularly holding its urine and feces. Depending on the dog, it can take weeks or longer. Consistency, positive reinforcement and patience are essential to the success of any housebreaking program.
- Keep your puppy in the crate overnight and at all times when you're not available to supervise it to prevent it from accidentally making your living room floor into a restroom, but make sure it's let out every three hours at least.
- Feed the puppy on a schedule to ensure it eliminates on a schedule.
- Never leave the puppy in the crate longer than three hours, as puppies cannot hold their bladders and bowels for long periods of time. If you cannot be present, arrange for someone to let it out for bathroom breaks at least every three hours.
- Never yell at or beat your puppy for mistakes. Instead promptly take it outdoors to ensure it's finished with its business. Punishment will make your puppy fear and distrust you, and ruin your chances of a successful housebreaking program.
Foods that Dogs Should NOT Eat
Some foods which are edible for humans, and even other species of animals, can pose hazards for dogs because of their different metabolism.
Some may cause only mild digestive upsets, whereas, others can cause severe illness, and even death. The following common food items should not be fed (intentionally or unintentionally) to dogs. This list is, of course, incomplete because we can not possibly list everything your dog should not eat.  Download our Pet Emergency Information Chart with household hazards and a phone list for pet emergencies that you can print and keep for future reference.
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Puppy Shots - Vaccinations keep Your pup safe
Why are puppy shots such a big deal? The answer is simple.....puppy vaccinations save the lives of puppies, just like yours, every single day.And keeping these vaccinations up to date is one of the most important things you can do to give your new (and furry!) family member the best chance of growing up healthy and strong.
Canine vaccines protect your precious puppy from some of the most common and contagious dog illnesses around, including Parvo, Distemper, Hepatitis and Rabies.
Canine vaccines protect your precious puppy from some of the most common and contagious dog illnesses around, including Parvo, Distemper, Hepatitis and Rabies.
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Several of these diseases are very dangerous and can be deadly to an unvaccinated puppy/dog, even when treated promptly. So, why take any chances when a few, well-timed, sets of puppy shots could literally save his life? About Puppy Vaccinations There are several common (but very serious, and potentially fatal), dog illnesses that you simply MUST protect your puppy from - and that's where canine vaccinations come in!
Did you know that if your puppy catches Canine Parvovirus (Parvo) she only has a 20% chance of surviving if it's left untreated?. Scary isn't it? Of course, you'd get your pup the best possible treatment if she got sick, but there's no 'cure' for Parvo (just supportive care, antibiotics and fluids which give her between a 20 and 50% chance of survival), or many other similar diseases such as Distemper. What puppy shots are needed, and when? Very young puppies have a certain amount of natural immunity that they get from their mothers milk, but that wears off somewhere between 5 and 8 weeks of age. After that they are at significant risk of contracting potentially fatal canine diseases.Depending on the country, or even region that you live in, dog vaccination regulations may vary a little. It is very important to follow the recommended dog vaccine schedule to keep your dog healthy. Vaccines prevent your dog from serious, potentially fatal illnesses.Puppies start to get vaccinated every 3 weeks starting at week or 8 until week 17. While the trend is to vaccinate adult dogs less, it is still recommended that puppies receive all of the core vaccines. Are Canine Vaccines Dangerous? A study done in the late 1990s showed the formation of malignant tumors at the site of vaccination in cats. While similar evidence does not exist for dog's, recent practice has been to check adult dog's for antibodies first to see if vaccination is necessary. Since antibody tests can cost as much as the vaccine itself, many owners choose the vaccine over the test. Once your puppy has had three sets of the combination puppy shots (aka the five-in-one canine vaccinations), plus the Rabies shot, she will generally be protected for one year. After that annual dog 'booster' vaccinations will need to be given. However, in some states (or areas), puppy shots now protect your pet for more than a year at a time, perhaps even up to three years. But you will need to ask your own veterinarian about this, and follow his/her advice and recommendations about vaccination procedure. You can find lots of information on the symptoms, method of transmission, and treatment of these diseases on my Dog Illnesses page. There are also some additional puppy shots that your veterinarian might recommend. These include vaccinations for Bordatella (commonly known as Kennel Cough), Giardia and Lyme Disease. Whether or not your pup needs these particular puppy shots will depend on variable such as what state/area you live in and whether or not she will be spending a lot of time at puppy day care etc. Some dog breeds are particularly vulnerable to Canine Parvovirus and should have a 4th Parvo vaccination to improve protection. This is usually given at around 16 weeks of age. These breeds include, but are not limited to, Rottweilers, Doberman Pinschers, Pitbulls and American Bulldogs. If you own one of these breeds, be sure to discuss this additional Parvo vaccination with your veterinarian. If you need help with the cost of vaccinating your puppy, many local SPCA and Humane Societies offer low-cost pet clinics where you can get your dog (or cat) vaccinated. They also offer similar programs for spay/neuter procedures. If you want to find out more about this, check with the organizations in your town.  |
Recommendations for a puppy immunization schedule in the USA:
6 - 8 weeks...... DHLPP + Corona 9 - 11 weeks...... DHLPP + Corona 12 - 14 weeks...... DHLPP + Corona 16 weeks...... Rabies Dog Vaccine Schedule "Dog Vaccine schedule varies for puppies and adult dogs. While puppies need the full course of vaccines, many vaccines for adult dogs last for years. The exception is the vaccine for bacterial infections such as parainfluenza or kennel cough which needs a year booster."
Some of the diseases vaccines protect against are: Distemper - This disease affects the respiratory system, the digestive system, and the central nervous system. There is no cure for it, and about 75% of dogs who get distemper die from it.Hepatitis - This is an infection that affects the liver. There is no cure. It can be fatal. Dogs that live may develop kidney disease, vision problems, and breathing problems. Leptospirosis - This is a disease that can cause liver or kidney problems. Parainfluenza - This is a respiratory virus. Kennel Cough - This is another respiratory disease. Parvo Virus - This is a gastro-intestinal infection. It causes severe vomiting and diarrhea. It can also affect the heart muscle. In severe cases, it can be fatal. Coronavirus - This disease also affects the gastro-intestinal system and causes severe diarrhea. It can also affect the liver. In adult dogs it is usually not too serious an illness, but it can be fatal in puppies. Rabies - This is a disease of the central nervous system. It is contagious to humans and animals believed to be rabid must be put to sleep. In most states it is the law that your dog must be given yearly rabies vaccines. Typical Dog Vaccine Schedule Follow the recommended dog vaccination schedule given to you by your vet. You’ll notice that one vaccine is listed as “DHLPPC.” This is a combination vaccine, where the vaccines for distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, parvo virus, and corona virus are given all at once.Following is a sample dog vaccination schedule. Your vet may vaccinate on a slightly different schedule, but it should be similar to this one that was developed for puppies: * Age 6-8 weeks - parvo, distemper with the option to vaccinate for parainfluenza and kennel cough. * Age 10-11 weeks - Parvo, idstemper, infectious hepatits with the option for paprinfluenza. and kennel cough. * Age 13-14 weeks - Parvo, distemper, infection hepatits wiht option for leptospirosis and lyme. * Age 16-17 weeks - Parvo and rabies with the option for Leptospirosis and lyme. * 1 year - Parvo, distemper, infectious hepatits and rabies with optional vaccines for Parainfluenza, kennel cough (Bordetella bronchiseptica), leptospirosis and Lyme. Instead of annual boosters for distemper, parvo and hepatitis, most veterinarians will do a blood test to check for antibodies instead as these vaccines can last as long as seven years. For rabies, frequency is based on the antibody tests and the prevalence of the disease in your area. The vaccine is good for 3 years in most dogs. Vaccines for bacterial infections only last for 6 to 12 months so dogs are given a yearly booster such as the DHLPPC booster for kennel cough, leptospirosis, parainfluenza and rabies. In addition to getting vaccinated, your pet will receive a physical examination. All dogs should be on a heartworm preventative as well. If you are adopting an adult dog from a shelter it is recommended that you have their antibodies tested or give your new pet 2 booster vaccines 3 weeks apart for distermper, parvo, infectious hepatitis and rabies. |
Allergic reactions to Canine Vaccines - Although most puppies hardly even
notice when their puppy shots are given, and show no ill effects
afterward, it's not terribly unusual for a pup to have an allergic
reaction of some sort to a vaccine.Most of the time these reactions to
puppy vaccinations are mild, and last only a day or two. But
occasionally they can be severe enough to need veterinary attention.
Because of this, it's a good idea to be aware of the potential signs and symptoms of an allergic reaction. These can include:
Although a puppy or dog can react badly to any canine vaccine, there seems to be a higher incidence of allergic reaction to the vaccines for Rabies, Parvo and Leptosirosis.
Also, there are some dog breeds that are more likely to experience these type of issues. They include, but aren't limited to, Miniature Dachshunds, West Highland White Terriers, Old English Sheepdogs, Akitas, Portuguese Water Dogs, Weimaraners, and Harlequin Great Danes.
So, the bottom line is that you need to watch your puppy closely for the first day or so after he's had his puppy shots. Any major reaction is most likely to occur within 24 hours (often much sooner). An allergic reaction of any sort is unlikely to happen after the first shot though, it's subsequent ones that you should pay particular attention to.
Although it's necessary to be aware of what could happen, don't panic about this! Thousands of puppies are vaccinated every day with no ill-effects, or only a very mild reaction.
Many, MANY more pups die from the diseases these canine vaccinations prevent, so protecting your puppy is vitally important.
Because of this, it's a good idea to be aware of the potential signs and symptoms of an allergic reaction. These can include:
- Mild Reactions
Most reactions are mild and symptoms can include a lump/swelling/knot at the site of the injection itself, a slight fever, lethargy or a depressed or sad looking little pup! Sometimes there will be some loss of appetite, and maybe even loose stools for a day or so. BUT, don't worry, in these cases your puppy is just feeling a little tired or 'off color' and the symptoms are short lived and don't usually need veterinary treatment. Note: Although these symptoms usually show up within a 3 - 24 hours of vaccination, they can appear much later, sometimes several days to a week after the puppy shots were given. - Moderate Reactions
Symptoms of a moderate allergic reaction to puppy immunizations usually involve swelling and/or hives. Often particularly noticeable around the mouth, eyes, face and neck, although welts can appear anywhere on your puppy's body. This kind or reaction usually occurs within a few hours of the vaccination. It can progress and become severe, so if you notice any swelling or hives appearing on your pup, take him back to the veterinarian's office right away. As an intermim measure you can give your little guy/gal some Benadryl to help reduce this swelling - but do check this with your vet first. The correct dosage for a dog is 1/2mg per pound of body weight, given every four hours. With very young pups or tiny breeds, this may not be safe... so again TALK TO YOUR VET FIRST! Veterinary treatment for this type of reaction may also include steroids and other anti-histamines. - Severe Reactions
The most serious allergic reaction to puppy shots is anaphylaxis. This is life-threatening and usually strikes within minutes of the vaccine being given. It may start out with vomiting/diarrhea and a loss of balance. It causes a sudden drop in your puppys' blood pressure, and generalized swelling which can result in breathing difficulties, seizures and even death. It's an emergency situation and if you have already left the veterinarian's office you need to get your pup back there immediately. He/she may need oxygen, IV fluids or other medical intervention, so don't waste any time.
Although a puppy or dog can react badly to any canine vaccine, there seems to be a higher incidence of allergic reaction to the vaccines for Rabies, Parvo and Leptosirosis.
Also, there are some dog breeds that are more likely to experience these type of issues. They include, but aren't limited to, Miniature Dachshunds, West Highland White Terriers, Old English Sheepdogs, Akitas, Portuguese Water Dogs, Weimaraners, and Harlequin Great Danes.
So, the bottom line is that you need to watch your puppy closely for the first day or so after he's had his puppy shots. Any major reaction is most likely to occur within 24 hours (often much sooner). An allergic reaction of any sort is unlikely to happen after the first shot though, it's subsequent ones that you should pay particular attention to.
Although it's necessary to be aware of what could happen, don't panic about this! Thousands of puppies are vaccinated every day with no ill-effects, or only a very mild reaction.
Many, MANY more pups die from the diseases these canine vaccinations prevent, so protecting your puppy is vitally important.
Who's in Charge Here? Lesson's in becoming the Alpha Dog
WHO'S IN CHARGE HERE?
A lesson in becoming Alpha
Dogs are social creatures and believers in social order. A dog's social system is a "pack" with a well-defined pecking order. The leader of the pack is the alpha, supreme boss, Top Dog. He (or she) gets the best of everything - the best food, the best place to sleep, the best toy, etc. The leader also gets to be first in everything - he gets to eat first, to leave first and to get attention first. All the other dogs in the pack respect the alpha dog's wishes. Any dog that challenges the alpha's authority gets a swift physical reminder of just where his place in the pack really is.
Your family is your dog's "pack". Many dogs fit easily into the lower levels of their human pack's pecking order and don't make waves. They do what they're told and don't challenge authority. Other dogs don't fit in quite as well. Some of them are natural born leaders and are always challenging their human alpha's. Other dogs are social climbers - they're always looking for ways to get a little closer to the top of the family ladder. These natural leaders and the social climbers can become problems to an unsuspecting family that's not aware of the dog's natural pack instincts.
Some families encourage their dogs to take over the "pack" without realizing it. They treat their dogs as equals, not as subordinates. They give them special privileges like being allowed to sleep on the bed or couch. They don't train their dogs and let them get away with disobeying commands. In a real dog pack, no one but the alpha dog would get this kind of treatment. Alpha doesn't have anything to do with size. The tiniest Chihuahua can be a canine Hitler. In fact, the smaller the dog, the more people tend to baby them and cater to them - making the dog feel even more dominant and in control of his humans.
Alpha dogs often seem to make good pets. They're confident, smarter than average, and affectionate. They can be wonderful with children and good with strangers. Everything seems to be great with the relationship - until someone crosses him or makes him do something he doesn't want to do. Then, suddenly, this wonderful dog growls or tries to bite someone and no one understands why.
In a real dog pack, the alpha dog doesn't have to answer to anyone. No one gives him orders or tells him what to do. The other dogs in the pack respect his position. If another dog is foolish enough to challenge the alpha by trying to take his bone or his favorite sleeping place, the alpha dog will quickly put him in his place with a hard stare or a growl. If this doesn't work, the alpha dog will enforce his leadership with his teeth. This is all natural, instinctive behavior - in a dog's world. In a human family, though, this behavior is unacceptable and dangerous.
Dogs need and want leaders. They have an instinctive need to fit into a pack. They want the security of knowing their place and what's expected of them. Most of them don't want to be alpha - they want someone else to give the orders and make the decisions. If his humans don't provide that leadership, the dog will take over the role himself. If you've allowed your dog to become alpha, you're at his mercy and as a leader, he may be either a benevolent king or a tyrant!
If you think your dog is alpha in your household, he probably is. If your dog respects only one or two members of the family but dominates the others, you still have a problem. The dog's place should be at the -bottom- of your human family's pack order, not at the top or somewhere in between.
A lesson in becoming Alpha
- "My dog just tried to bite me! All I did was tell him to move over so I could sit on the couch next to him."
- "My dog got into the trash can and when I scolded her, she growled at me. What's wrong with her? I thought she loved me!"
- "Our dog is very affectionate most of the time but when we try to make him do something he doesn't want to do, he snaps at us."
Dogs are social creatures and believers in social order. A dog's social system is a "pack" with a well-defined pecking order. The leader of the pack is the alpha, supreme boss, Top Dog. He (or she) gets the best of everything - the best food, the best place to sleep, the best toy, etc. The leader also gets to be first in everything - he gets to eat first, to leave first and to get attention first. All the other dogs in the pack respect the alpha dog's wishes. Any dog that challenges the alpha's authority gets a swift physical reminder of just where his place in the pack really is.
Your family is your dog's "pack". Many dogs fit easily into the lower levels of their human pack's pecking order and don't make waves. They do what they're told and don't challenge authority. Other dogs don't fit in quite as well. Some of them are natural born leaders and are always challenging their human alpha's. Other dogs are social climbers - they're always looking for ways to get a little closer to the top of the family ladder. These natural leaders and the social climbers can become problems to an unsuspecting family that's not aware of the dog's natural pack instincts.
Some families encourage their dogs to take over the "pack" without realizing it. They treat their dogs as equals, not as subordinates. They give them special privileges like being allowed to sleep on the bed or couch. They don't train their dogs and let them get away with disobeying commands. In a real dog pack, no one but the alpha dog would get this kind of treatment. Alpha doesn't have anything to do with size. The tiniest Chihuahua can be a canine Hitler. In fact, the smaller the dog, the more people tend to baby them and cater to them - making the dog feel even more dominant and in control of his humans.
Alpha dogs often seem to make good pets. They're confident, smarter than average, and affectionate. They can be wonderful with children and good with strangers. Everything seems to be great with the relationship - until someone crosses him or makes him do something he doesn't want to do. Then, suddenly, this wonderful dog growls or tries to bite someone and no one understands why.
In a real dog pack, the alpha dog doesn't have to answer to anyone. No one gives him orders or tells him what to do. The other dogs in the pack respect his position. If another dog is foolish enough to challenge the alpha by trying to take his bone or his favorite sleeping place, the alpha dog will quickly put him in his place with a hard stare or a growl. If this doesn't work, the alpha dog will enforce his leadership with his teeth. This is all natural, instinctive behavior - in a dog's world. In a human family, though, this behavior is unacceptable and dangerous.
Dogs need and want leaders. They have an instinctive need to fit into a pack. They want the security of knowing their place and what's expected of them. Most of them don't want to be alpha - they want someone else to give the orders and make the decisions. If his humans don't provide that leadership, the dog will take over the role himself. If you've allowed your dog to become alpha, you're at his mercy and as a leader, he may be either a benevolent king or a tyrant!
If you think your dog is alpha in your household, he probably is. If your dog respects only one or two members of the family but dominates the others, you still have a problem. The dog's place should be at the -bottom- of your human family's pack order, not at the top or somewhere in between.
Reclaim your Family's Place as Pack Leader
In order to reclaim your family's rightful place as leaders of the pack, your
dog needs some lessons in how to be a subordinate, not an equal. You're going
to show him what it means to be a dog again. Your dog's mother showed him very
early in life that -she- was alpha and that he had to respect her. As a
puppy, he was given a secure place in his litter's pack and because of that
security, he was free to concentrate on growing, learning, playing, loving and
just being a dog. Your dog doesn't really want the responsibility of being
alpha, having to make the decisions and defend his position at the top. He
wants a leader to follow and worship so he can have the freedom of just being
a dog again.
How to become leader of your pack Your dog watches you constantly and reads your body language. He knows if you're insecure, uncomfortable in a leadership role or won't enforce a command. This behavior confuses him, makes -him- insecure and if he's a natural leader or has a social-climbing personality, it'll encourage him to assume the alpha position and tell -you- what to do.
"Alpha" is an attitude. It involves quiet confidence, dignity, intelligence, an air of authority. A dog can sense this attitude almost immediately - it's how his mother acted towards him. Watch a professional trainer or a good obedience instructor. They stand tall and use their voices and eyes to project the idea that they're capable of getting what they want. They're gentle but firm, loving but tough, all at the same time. Most dogs are immediately submissive towards this type of personality because they recognize and respect alpha when they see it.
Practice being alpha. Stand up straight with your shoulders back. Walk tall. Practice using a new tone of voice, one that's deep and firm. Don't ask your dog to do something - tell him. There's a difference. He knows the difference, too! Remember that, as alpha, you're entitled to make the rules and give the orders. Your dog understands that instinctively.
With most dogs, just this change in your attitude and an obedience training course will be enough to turn things around. With a dog that's already taken over the household and has enforced his position by growling or biting and has been allowed to get away with it, you'll need to do more than just decide to be alpha. The dog is going to need an attitude adjustment as well.
Natural leaders and social climbers aren't going to want to give up their alpha position. Your sudden change in behavior is going to shock and threaten them. Your dog might act even more aggressively than before. An alpha dog will instinctively respond to challenges to his authority. It's his nature to want to put down revolutionary uprisings by the peasants! Don't worry, there's a way around it.
An alpha dog already knows that he can beat you in a physical fight so returning his aggression with violence of your own won't work. Until you've successfully established your position as alpha, corrections like hitting, shaking, or using the "rollover" techniques described in some books will not work and can be downright dangerous to you. An alpha dog will respond to these methods with violence and you could be seriously hurt.
What you need to do is use your brain! You're smarter than he is and you can out think him. You'll also need to be stubborner than he is. What I'm about to describe here is an effective, non-violent method of removing your dog from alpha status and putting him back at the bottom of the family totem pole where he belongs and where he needs to be. In order for this method to work, your whole family has to be involved. It requires an attitude adjustment from everyone and a new way of working with your dog.
This is serious business. A dog that bites or threatens people is a dangerous dog, no matter how much you love him. If treating your dog like a dog and not an equal seems harsh to you, keep in mind that our society no longer tolerates dangerous dogs. Lawsuits from dog bites are now settling for millions of dollars - you could lose your home and everything else you own if your dog injures someone. You or your children could be permanently disfigured. And your dog could lose his life. That's the bottom line.
How to become leader of your pack Your dog watches you constantly and reads your body language. He knows if you're insecure, uncomfortable in a leadership role or won't enforce a command. This behavior confuses him, makes -him- insecure and if he's a natural leader or has a social-climbing personality, it'll encourage him to assume the alpha position and tell -you- what to do.
"Alpha" is an attitude. It involves quiet confidence, dignity, intelligence, an air of authority. A dog can sense this attitude almost immediately - it's how his mother acted towards him. Watch a professional trainer or a good obedience instructor. They stand tall and use their voices and eyes to project the idea that they're capable of getting what they want. They're gentle but firm, loving but tough, all at the same time. Most dogs are immediately submissive towards this type of personality because they recognize and respect alpha when they see it.
Practice being alpha. Stand up straight with your shoulders back. Walk tall. Practice using a new tone of voice, one that's deep and firm. Don't ask your dog to do something - tell him. There's a difference. He knows the difference, too! Remember that, as alpha, you're entitled to make the rules and give the orders. Your dog understands that instinctively.
With most dogs, just this change in your attitude and an obedience training course will be enough to turn things around. With a dog that's already taken over the household and has enforced his position by growling or biting and has been allowed to get away with it, you'll need to do more than just decide to be alpha. The dog is going to need an attitude adjustment as well.
Natural leaders and social climbers aren't going to want to give up their alpha position. Your sudden change in behavior is going to shock and threaten them. Your dog might act even more aggressively than before. An alpha dog will instinctively respond to challenges to his authority. It's his nature to want to put down revolutionary uprisings by the peasants! Don't worry, there's a way around it.
An alpha dog already knows that he can beat you in a physical fight so returning his aggression with violence of your own won't work. Until you've successfully established your position as alpha, corrections like hitting, shaking, or using the "rollover" techniques described in some books will not work and can be downright dangerous to you. An alpha dog will respond to these methods with violence and you could be seriously hurt.
What you need to do is use your brain! You're smarter than he is and you can out think him. You'll also need to be stubborner than he is. What I'm about to describe here is an effective, non-violent method of removing your dog from alpha status and putting him back at the bottom of the family totem pole where he belongs and where he needs to be. In order for this method to work, your whole family has to be involved. It requires an attitude adjustment from everyone and a new way of working with your dog.
This is serious business. A dog that bites or threatens people is a dangerous dog, no matter how much you love him. If treating your dog like a dog and not an equal seems harsh to you, keep in mind that our society no longer tolerates dangerous dogs. Lawsuits from dog bites are now settling for millions of dollars - you could lose your home and everything else you own if your dog injures someone. You or your children could be permanently disfigured. And your dog could lose his life. That's the bottom line.
Canine Boot Camp for Alpha Attitude Adjustment
From this day forward, you're going to teach your dog that he is a dog, not a
miniature human being in a furry suit. His mother taught him how to be a dog
once and how to take orders. Along the way, through lack of training or
misunderstood intentions, he's forgotten. With your help, he's going to
remember what he is and how he fits into the world. Before long, he's even
going to like it!
Dogs were bred to look to humans for food, companionship and guidance. An alpha dog doesn't ask for what he wants, he demands it. He lets you know in no uncertain terms that he wants his dinner, that he wants to go out, that he wants to play and be petted and that he wants these things right now. You're going to teach him that from now on, he has to earn what he gets. No more free rides. This is going to be a shock to his system at first but you'll be surprised how quickly he'll catch on and that he'll actually become eager to please you.
If your dog doesn't already know the simple command SIT, teach it to him. Reward him with praise and a tidbit. Don't go overboard with the praise. A simple "Good boy!" in a happy voice is enough. Now, every time your dog wants something - his dinner, a trip outside, a walk, some attention, anything - tell him (remember don't ask him, tell him) to SIT first. When he does, praise him with a "Good Boy!", then tell him OKAY and give him whatever it is he wants as a reward. If he refuses to SIT, walk away and ignore him. No SIT, No reward. If you don't think he understands the command, work on his training some more. If he just doesn't want to obey, ignore him - don't give him what he wants or reward him in any fashion.
Dogs were bred to look to humans for food, companionship and guidance. An alpha dog doesn't ask for what he wants, he demands it. He lets you know in no uncertain terms that he wants his dinner, that he wants to go out, that he wants to play and be petted and that he wants these things right now. You're going to teach him that from now on, he has to earn what he gets. No more free rides. This is going to be a shock to his system at first but you'll be surprised how quickly he'll catch on and that he'll actually become eager to please you.
If your dog doesn't already know the simple command SIT, teach it to him. Reward him with praise and a tidbit. Don't go overboard with the praise. A simple "Good boy!" in a happy voice is enough. Now, every time your dog wants something - his dinner, a trip outside, a walk, some attention, anything - tell him (remember don't ask him, tell him) to SIT first. When he does, praise him with a "Good Boy!", then tell him OKAY and give him whatever it is he wants as a reward. If he refuses to SIT, walk away and ignore him. No SIT, No reward. If you don't think he understands the command, work on his training some more. If he just doesn't want to obey, ignore him - don't give him what he wants or reward him in any fashion.
Make him sit before giving him his dinner, make him sit at the door before
going outside, make him sit in front of you to be petted, make him sit before
giving him his toy. If you normally leave food out for him all the time,
stop. Go to a twice daily feeding and you decide what time of day he'll be
fed. Make him sit for his dinner. If he won't obey the command - no dinner.
Walk away and ignore him. Bring the food out later and tell him again to SIT.
If he understands the command, don't tell him more than once. He heard you
the first time. Give commands from a standing position and use a deep, firm
tone of voice.
If the dog respects certain members of the family but not others, let the others be the ones to feed him and bring the good things to his life for now. Show them how to make him obey the SIT command and how to walk away and ignore him if he won't do as he's told. It's important that your whole family follows this program. Dogs are like kids - if they can't have their way with Mom, they'll go ask Dad. In your dog's case, if he finds a member of the family that he can dominate, he'll continue to do so. You want your dog to learn that he has to respect and obey everyone. Remember - his place is at the bottom of the totem pole. Bouncing him from the top spot helps but if he thinks he's anywhere in the middle, you're still going to have problems.
Think - you know your dog and know what he's likely to do under most circumstances. Stay a step ahead of him and anticipate his behavior so you can avoid or correct it. If he gets into the trash and growls when scolded, make the trash can inaccessible. If he likes to bolt out the door ahead of you, put a leash on him. Make him sit and wait while you open the door and give him permission - OKAY! - to go out. If your alpha dog doesn't like to come when he's called (and he probably doesn't!), don't let him outside off leash. Without a leash, you have no control over him and he knows it.
Petting and attention: Alpha dogs are used to being fussed over. In a real dog pack, subordinate dogs are forever touching, licking and grooming the alpha dog. It's a show of respect and submission. For now, until his attitude has shown improvement, cut down on the amount of cuddling your dog gets. When he wants attention, make him SIT first, give him a few kind words and pats, then stop. Go back to whatever it was you were doing and ignore him. If he pesters you, tell him NO! in a firm voice and ignore him some more. Pet him when you want to, not just because he wants you to. Also, for the time being, don't get down on the floor or on your knees to pet your dog. That, too, is a show of submission. Give praise, petting and rewards from a position that's higher than the dog.
If the dog respects certain members of the family but not others, let the others be the ones to feed him and bring the good things to his life for now. Show them how to make him obey the SIT command and how to walk away and ignore him if he won't do as he's told. It's important that your whole family follows this program. Dogs are like kids - if they can't have their way with Mom, they'll go ask Dad. In your dog's case, if he finds a member of the family that he can dominate, he'll continue to do so. You want your dog to learn that he has to respect and obey everyone. Remember - his place is at the bottom of the totem pole. Bouncing him from the top spot helps but if he thinks he's anywhere in the middle, you're still going to have problems.
Think - you know your dog and know what he's likely to do under most circumstances. Stay a step ahead of him and anticipate his behavior so you can avoid or correct it. If he gets into the trash and growls when scolded, make the trash can inaccessible. If he likes to bolt out the door ahead of you, put a leash on him. Make him sit and wait while you open the door and give him permission - OKAY! - to go out. If your alpha dog doesn't like to come when he's called (and he probably doesn't!), don't let him outside off leash. Without a leash, you have no control over him and he knows it.
Petting and attention: Alpha dogs are used to being fussed over. In a real dog pack, subordinate dogs are forever touching, licking and grooming the alpha dog. It's a show of respect and submission. For now, until his attitude has shown improvement, cut down on the amount of cuddling your dog gets. When he wants attention, make him SIT first, give him a few kind words and pats, then stop. Go back to whatever it was you were doing and ignore him. If he pesters you, tell him NO! in a firm voice and ignore him some more. Pet him when you want to, not just because he wants you to. Also, for the time being, don't get down on the floor or on your knees to pet your dog. That, too, is a show of submission. Give praise, petting and rewards from a position that's higher than the dog.
Games
Games: If you or anyone in your family wrestles, rough-houses or plays tug of
war with your dog, stop! These games encourage dogs to dominate people
physically and to use their teeth. In a dog pack or in a litter, these games
are more than just playing - they help to establish pack order based on
physical strength. Your dog is already probably stronger and quicker than you
are. Rough, physical games prove that to him. He doesn't need to be reminded
of it!
Find new games for him to play. Hide & seek, fetch or frisbee catching are
more appropriate. Make sure you're the one who starts and ends the game, not
the dog. Stop playing before the dog gets bored and is inclined to try to
keep the ball or frisbee.
Where does your dog sleep?
Where does your dog sleep? Not in your bedroom and especially not on your
bed! Your bedroom is a special place - it's your "den". An alpha dog thinks
he has a right to sleep in your den because he considers himself your equal.
In fact, he may have already taken over your bed, refusing to get off when
told or growling and snapping when anyone asks him to make room for the
humans. Until your dog's alpha problems are fully under control, the bedroom
should be off-limits! The same goes for sleeping on furniture. If you can't
keep him off the couch without a fight, deny him access to the room until his
behavior and training has improved.
Crate-training: Dog crates have 1,000 uses and working with an alpha dog is one of them. It's a great place for your dog to sleep at night, to eat in and just to stay in when he needs to chill out and be reminded that he's a dog. The crate is your dog's "den". Start crate training by feeding him his dinner in his crate. Close the door and let him stay there for an hour afterwards. If he throws a tantrum, ignore him. Don't let your dog out of his crate until he's quiet and settled. At bedtime, show him an irresistable goodie, tell him to SIT and when he does, throw the goodie into the crate. When he dives in for the treat, tell him what a good boy he is and close the door.
Crate-training: Dog crates have 1,000 uses and working with an alpha dog is one of them. It's a great place for your dog to sleep at night, to eat in and just to stay in when he needs to chill out and be reminded that he's a dog. The crate is your dog's "den". Start crate training by feeding him his dinner in his crate. Close the door and let him stay there for an hour afterwards. If he throws a tantrum, ignore him. Don't let your dog out of his crate until he's quiet and settled. At bedtime, show him an irresistable goodie, tell him to SIT and when he does, throw the goodie into the crate. When he dives in for the treat, tell him what a good boy he is and close the door.
Graduating from Boot Camp...what's next...
Graduating from Boot Camp: What's next?
Just like in the army, boot camp is really just an introduction to a new career and new way of doing things. A tour through boot camp isn't going to solve your alpha dog's problems forever. It's a way to get basic respect from a dog who's been bullying you without having to resort to physical force.
How long should boot camp last? That depends on the dog. Some will show an improvement right away, others may take much longer. For really tough cookies, natural leaders that need constant reminders of their place in the pack, Alpha Dog Boot Camp will become a way of life. Social climbers may need periodic trips through boot camp if you get lax and accidentally let them climb back up a notch or two in the family pack order.
How do you know if you're making a difference? If boot camp has been successful, your dog should start looking to you for directions and permission. He'll show an eagerness to please. Watch how your dog approaches and greets you. Does he come to you "standing tall", with his head and ears held high and erect? It may look impressive and proud but it means he's still alpha and you still have problems! A dog who accepts humans as superiors will approach you with his head slightly lowered and his ears back or off to the sides. He'll "shrink" his whole body a little in a show of submission. Watch how he greets all the members of the family. If he displays this submissive posture to some of them, but not others, those are the ones who still need to work on their own alpha posture and methods. They should take him back through another tour of boot camp with support from the rest of the family.
Obedience Training: Once your dog has begun to accept this new way of life and his new position in the family, you should take him through an obedience course with a qualified trainer. All dogs need to be trained and alpha dogs need training most of all! You don't have to wait until he's through with boot camp to start this training but it's important that he respects at least one member of the family and is willing to take direction from them.
Obedience class teaches you to train your dog. It teaches you how to be alpha, how to enforce commands and rules, how to get respect and to keep it. All family members who are old enough to understand and control the dog should participate in the class.
Obedience training is a lifelong process. One obedience course does not a trained dog make! Obedience commands need to be practiced and incorporated into your daily life. In a dog pack, the alpha animal uses occasional reminders to reinforce his authority. Certain commands, like DOWN/STAY, are especially effective, nonviolent reminders of a dog's place in the family pack order and who's really in charge here. We offer Obdience Training classes here at the Dog House.
A well-trained obedient dog is a happy dog and a joy to live with. Dogs want to please and need a job to do. Training gives them the opportunity to do both. A well-trained dog has more freedom. He can go more places and do more things with you because he knows how to behave. A well-trained dog that's secure in his place within the family pack is comfortable and confident. He knows what's expected of him. He knows his limits and who his leaders are. He's free from the responsibility of running the household and making decisions. He's free to be your loving companion and not your boss. He's free to be a dog - what he was born to be and what he always wanted to be in the first place!
When You Need Professional Help
If your dog has already injured you or someone else or if you are afraid of your dog, you should consult with a qualified professional dog trainer or behaviorist before starting Canine Boot Camp. Your dog should also have an exam by your vet to make sure there are no physical causes for his behavior. To find a qualified trainer or behaviorist near you, contact your veterinarian or the American Kennel Club for a list of obedience training clubs in your area.
This article was written by Vicki Rodenberg De Gruy, Chairman of the Chow Chow Club Inc.'s Welfare Committee. Uploaded with permission from the author, it may be reproduced for non-profit purposes with author's credit given.
Just like in the army, boot camp is really just an introduction to a new career and new way of doing things. A tour through boot camp isn't going to solve your alpha dog's problems forever. It's a way to get basic respect from a dog who's been bullying you without having to resort to physical force.
How long should boot camp last? That depends on the dog. Some will show an improvement right away, others may take much longer. For really tough cookies, natural leaders that need constant reminders of their place in the pack, Alpha Dog Boot Camp will become a way of life. Social climbers may need periodic trips through boot camp if you get lax and accidentally let them climb back up a notch or two in the family pack order.
How do you know if you're making a difference? If boot camp has been successful, your dog should start looking to you for directions and permission. He'll show an eagerness to please. Watch how your dog approaches and greets you. Does he come to you "standing tall", with his head and ears held high and erect? It may look impressive and proud but it means he's still alpha and you still have problems! A dog who accepts humans as superiors will approach you with his head slightly lowered and his ears back or off to the sides. He'll "shrink" his whole body a little in a show of submission. Watch how he greets all the members of the family. If he displays this submissive posture to some of them, but not others, those are the ones who still need to work on their own alpha posture and methods. They should take him back through another tour of boot camp with support from the rest of the family.
Obedience Training: Once your dog has begun to accept this new way of life and his new position in the family, you should take him through an obedience course with a qualified trainer. All dogs need to be trained and alpha dogs need training most of all! You don't have to wait until he's through with boot camp to start this training but it's important that he respects at least one member of the family and is willing to take direction from them.
Obedience class teaches you to train your dog. It teaches you how to be alpha, how to enforce commands and rules, how to get respect and to keep it. All family members who are old enough to understand and control the dog should participate in the class.
Obedience training is a lifelong process. One obedience course does not a trained dog make! Obedience commands need to be practiced and incorporated into your daily life. In a dog pack, the alpha animal uses occasional reminders to reinforce his authority. Certain commands, like DOWN/STAY, are especially effective, nonviolent reminders of a dog's place in the family pack order and who's really in charge here. We offer Obdience Training classes here at the Dog House.
A well-trained obedient dog is a happy dog and a joy to live with. Dogs want to please and need a job to do. Training gives them the opportunity to do both. A well-trained dog has more freedom. He can go more places and do more things with you because he knows how to behave. A well-trained dog that's secure in his place within the family pack is comfortable and confident. He knows what's expected of him. He knows his limits and who his leaders are. He's free from the responsibility of running the household and making decisions. He's free to be your loving companion and not your boss. He's free to be a dog - what he was born to be and what he always wanted to be in the first place!
When You Need Professional Help
If your dog has already injured you or someone else or if you are afraid of your dog, you should consult with a qualified professional dog trainer or behaviorist before starting Canine Boot Camp. Your dog should also have an exam by your vet to make sure there are no physical causes for his behavior. To find a qualified trainer or behaviorist near you, contact your veterinarian or the American Kennel Club for a list of obedience training clubs in your area.
This article was written by Vicki Rodenberg De Gruy, Chairman of the Chow Chow Club Inc.'s Welfare Committee. Uploaded with permission from the author, it may be reproduced for non-profit purposes with author's credit given.
Kids and Dogs: A Common Sense Approach
Understanding dog bites: how they occur and how to prevent them
This article by Vicki DeGruy, originally published in Dog Owner's Guide, was the winner of a 1993 Dog Writer's Association of America Maxwell award for best article in a canine newspaper.
Question: I'd like to get a medium to large breed dog for my family but I'm worried. I've heard so many stories about dogs biting children. How can I be sure that it will be safe for my kids?
Answer: You have good reason to be concerned. Statistics show that most dog bites causing serious injury involve medium to large sized dogs and children under the age of five years. The dog is usually known to the child or is the family's pet.
To understand how these bites occur, what causes them and how to prevent them, a little education in the nature of dogs and the nature of small children is in order.
A dog's temperament is first inherited, then modified by events in his life and proper training. Some breeds and certain bloodlines within breeds are friendlier, more tolerant and more adaptable to training because they were bred to be that way. A responsible breeder wisely puts emphasis on good temperament when selecting breeding stock. Breeders without adequate knowledge of dog behavior may not understand what a correct temperament is and use unsuitable dogs for breeding.
Unscrupulous breeders sometimes deliberately breed dogs with poor temperaments. There are some dogs, just like there are some humans, that are mentally disturbed or have an illness or physical defect that affects their behavior. A dog's basic temperament, instincts and training have the biggest effects on how that dog reacts to the world around him and his levels of tolerance.
Very few bites happen without provocation -- but the provocation may exist only in the dog's mind! We need to realize that dogs are not little people in furry costumes. They don't think in the same way that we do. They look at the world around them with a different perspective. Most of their actions are instinctive. A dog will react to situations according to what his instincts tell him unless these instincts are overridden by the consistent training and socialization he needs to receive from his owner throughout his life.
Here is one of the most commonly reported scenarios in a bite case: A very young child sees a pretty dog he'd like to pet. The dog may not want to be petted. The dog's first instinctive reaction is show his displeasure by giving a warning -- growling. The growl means that something more unpleasant will follow if the warning isn't heeded.
The type and number of warnings given can vary. Many dogs faced with a child like this would just walk away. Walking away can be considered a warning. If the child keeps trying to pet the dog, a sterner warning, usually a growl, will follow. Some warnings are more subtle -- a stiffening of the body, for example. Few dogs bite without giving some indication beforehand.
Small children (and some adults) don't recognize a warning when they see or hear one. A very young child (under age six) doesn't know what a growl means. What may be obvious to an adult isn't understood by the child. The child continues to pet or follow after the dog even though the dog has now clearly told him what will happen if he doesn't stop.
Dogs instinctively set up an invisible "fight or flight" boundary around themselves. The size of this boundary depends on his level of confidence and tolerance. A fearful dog will give itself a wider area than a more stable one. When someone who the dog perceives as threatening or unwelcome enters that area, the dog has two choices -- it can run away or it can defend itself. If it feels that it can't run away, it will fight instead, no matter how afraid it might be. Some dogs will choose to fight first, rather than run.
A small child that's petting or hugging a dog has already intruded well within the dog's flight or fight boundary, the dog's safety zone. If the dog has tried to leave or has issued a warning with no response from the child, the dog (in his mind) has no other recourse -- he bites. This is normal, instinctive behavior -- to the dog. He is responding to what he perceives as a threat and is doing what his instincts tell him to. Remember that dogs don't think in the same way that people do. A child's innocent action, petting the dog, can be provocation for a bite when seen through the eyes of the dog.
There are other circumstances that can provoke a dog to bite a child. Running, playing, screaming kids can trigger an instinctive predator-prey reaction in some dogs. Children who rough house and wrestle with dogs unknowingly encourage them to use their teeth. Dogs equate this kind of play with littermates or other dogs where using teeth is allowed. Startling a sleeping dog or petting him when he's eating can also provoke a bite.
What can be done to prevent dogs from biting children? I feel that, first, it's essential to understand that almost any dog will bite under the right circumstances. Second, a dog is a dog, an animal whose behavior isn't the same as humans and can't always be predicted with 100 percent accuracy, no matter how friendly or reliable he is.
Obedience training and socialization are absolute musts for a dog who'll be spending time with children. Remember that a dog will act according to his instincts if he doesn't receive proper training or if that training isn't kept up through regular practice. The dog needs to be taught to obey commands under all conditions no matter how distracting. Just as responding to the command to "come" could save the dog's life someday, an immediate response to the command "leave it!" could save a child from serious injury.
Just as children need to be taught how to be well-behaved around other people, they need to be taught to be well-behaved and respectful around animals. They need to learn what kinds of games are appropriate, how to touch the dog properly, how to interpret the dog's body language and when the dog is not to be disturbed. When they're old enough to understand, kids should be involved in the training process. They should learn to give the dog commands and be able to enforce them.
Adult supervision is essential! Small children should never, ever be left alone with any dog, no matter how reliable the dog has been before. A responsible adult needs to be on the scene to prevent any aggressive behavior by the dog and to keep the child from putting him or herself in danger. Telling the toddler to stay away from the dog isn't enough! Remember that young children don't recognize when they may in trouble. It's up to the adult to keep them safe from the dog and to keep the dog safe from the children. I can't stress enough that adult supervision around children and dogs is absolutely critical! If you can't be right there to handle whatever might come up or if you have any doubt about the dog's behavior around children, the dog should be put away out of reach of the kids.
Almost all of us would agree that it would be nice for our children to grow up with a dog. Kids and dogs are wonderful, almost an American tradition. If you're thinking of getting a dog for the children or already have one, here are some guidelines: Consider postponing the purchase of a dog, especially a large one, until your children are at least six years old.
Understanding dog bites: how they occur and how to prevent them
This article by Vicki DeGruy, originally published in Dog Owner's Guide, was the winner of a 1993 Dog Writer's Association of America Maxwell award for best article in a canine newspaper.
Question: I'd like to get a medium to large breed dog for my family but I'm worried. I've heard so many stories about dogs biting children. How can I be sure that it will be safe for my kids?
Answer: You have good reason to be concerned. Statistics show that most dog bites causing serious injury involve medium to large sized dogs and children under the age of five years. The dog is usually known to the child or is the family's pet.
To understand how these bites occur, what causes them and how to prevent them, a little education in the nature of dogs and the nature of small children is in order.
A dog's temperament is first inherited, then modified by events in his life and proper training. Some breeds and certain bloodlines within breeds are friendlier, more tolerant and more adaptable to training because they were bred to be that way. A responsible breeder wisely puts emphasis on good temperament when selecting breeding stock. Breeders without adequate knowledge of dog behavior may not understand what a correct temperament is and use unsuitable dogs for breeding.
Unscrupulous breeders sometimes deliberately breed dogs with poor temperaments. There are some dogs, just like there are some humans, that are mentally disturbed or have an illness or physical defect that affects their behavior. A dog's basic temperament, instincts and training have the biggest effects on how that dog reacts to the world around him and his levels of tolerance.
Very few bites happen without provocation -- but the provocation may exist only in the dog's mind! We need to realize that dogs are not little people in furry costumes. They don't think in the same way that we do. They look at the world around them with a different perspective. Most of their actions are instinctive. A dog will react to situations according to what his instincts tell him unless these instincts are overridden by the consistent training and socialization he needs to receive from his owner throughout his life.
Here is one of the most commonly reported scenarios in a bite case: A very young child sees a pretty dog he'd like to pet. The dog may not want to be petted. The dog's first instinctive reaction is show his displeasure by giving a warning -- growling. The growl means that something more unpleasant will follow if the warning isn't heeded.
The type and number of warnings given can vary. Many dogs faced with a child like this would just walk away. Walking away can be considered a warning. If the child keeps trying to pet the dog, a sterner warning, usually a growl, will follow. Some warnings are more subtle -- a stiffening of the body, for example. Few dogs bite without giving some indication beforehand.
Small children (and some adults) don't recognize a warning when they see or hear one. A very young child (under age six) doesn't know what a growl means. What may be obvious to an adult isn't understood by the child. The child continues to pet or follow after the dog even though the dog has now clearly told him what will happen if he doesn't stop.
Dogs instinctively set up an invisible "fight or flight" boundary around themselves. The size of this boundary depends on his level of confidence and tolerance. A fearful dog will give itself a wider area than a more stable one. When someone who the dog perceives as threatening or unwelcome enters that area, the dog has two choices -- it can run away or it can defend itself. If it feels that it can't run away, it will fight instead, no matter how afraid it might be. Some dogs will choose to fight first, rather than run.
A small child that's petting or hugging a dog has already intruded well within the dog's flight or fight boundary, the dog's safety zone. If the dog has tried to leave or has issued a warning with no response from the child, the dog (in his mind) has no other recourse -- he bites. This is normal, instinctive behavior -- to the dog. He is responding to what he perceives as a threat and is doing what his instincts tell him to. Remember that dogs don't think in the same way that people do. A child's innocent action, petting the dog, can be provocation for a bite when seen through the eyes of the dog.
There are other circumstances that can provoke a dog to bite a child. Running, playing, screaming kids can trigger an instinctive predator-prey reaction in some dogs. Children who rough house and wrestle with dogs unknowingly encourage them to use their teeth. Dogs equate this kind of play with littermates or other dogs where using teeth is allowed. Startling a sleeping dog or petting him when he's eating can also provoke a bite.
What can be done to prevent dogs from biting children? I feel that, first, it's essential to understand that almost any dog will bite under the right circumstances. Second, a dog is a dog, an animal whose behavior isn't the same as humans and can't always be predicted with 100 percent accuracy, no matter how friendly or reliable he is.
Obedience training and socialization are absolute musts for a dog who'll be spending time with children. Remember that a dog will act according to his instincts if he doesn't receive proper training or if that training isn't kept up through regular practice. The dog needs to be taught to obey commands under all conditions no matter how distracting. Just as responding to the command to "come" could save the dog's life someday, an immediate response to the command "leave it!" could save a child from serious injury.
Just as children need to be taught how to be well-behaved around other people, they need to be taught to be well-behaved and respectful around animals. They need to learn what kinds of games are appropriate, how to touch the dog properly, how to interpret the dog's body language and when the dog is not to be disturbed. When they're old enough to understand, kids should be involved in the training process. They should learn to give the dog commands and be able to enforce them.
Adult supervision is essential! Small children should never, ever be left alone with any dog, no matter how reliable the dog has been before. A responsible adult needs to be on the scene to prevent any aggressive behavior by the dog and to keep the child from putting him or herself in danger. Telling the toddler to stay away from the dog isn't enough! Remember that young children don't recognize when they may in trouble. It's up to the adult to keep them safe from the dog and to keep the dog safe from the children. I can't stress enough that adult supervision around children and dogs is absolutely critical! If you can't be right there to handle whatever might come up or if you have any doubt about the dog's behavior around children, the dog should be put away out of reach of the kids.
Almost all of us would agree that it would be nice for our children to grow up with a dog. Kids and dogs are wonderful, almost an American tradition. If you're thinking of getting a dog for the children or already have one, here are some guidelines: Consider postponing the purchase of a dog, especially a large one, until your children are at least six years old.
- Take your time when looking for a dog. Do your homework. Learn the differences in the various breeds and choose one best suited to your lifestyle and experience.
- Be honest with yourself about the amount of time and work you're willing to put into a dog. If you don't have time to raise and train the dog properly, don't get one.
- Buy your dog from a reputable, responsible breeder who puts priority on good temperament and health and consistently produces dogs that excel in those areas. Choose a provider who's experienced and willing to guide and advise you about care and training throughout the dog's life.
- Train and socialize your dog properly! Get help if you run into problems. Don't fool yourself into thinking the dog will "outgrow" it or that the problem will go away on its own.
- Teach your children how to behave correctly and safely around animals and to respect them.
- If your children are too young to understand, it will be up to you to physically supervise them and protect them from potential harm. Don't take chances with their safety! If you can't be right there to take care of a problem or if you can't control your dog or your child -- put the dog away.
- Remember that what your dog tolerates from your own children may not be tolerated from someone else's. You need to take extra safety precautions when other children visit and make sure that the children obey your ground rules.
- Never, ever leave a child alone with any dog, no matter how harmless the dog seems.
Dog’s Age: Just How Old Is My Dog Really?
It is a popular misconception that all dogs age 7 years for each calendar year.
Then there are some who believe you would multiply each year by 4. If we calculated a dog’s age in these manners, then all dogs would either live over 100 years old or die before they turn 50.
Let me show you what I mean using two of my dogs as example base on the above method of calculation.
- Max, Maltese, weighs 5.2 lbs, born Oct 07′ 1990 and still going strong in 2007, making him 17 calendar years.
- Bucky, Crossbred, weighed about 90 lbs,was born 1966 and died mid 1977, making him 11 calendar years .
If you multiply calendar years by 4, Max would be 84 years old this Oct and Bucky would have been 40 years old when he died.
As you can see, both methods of calculating dog’s age are very misleading. But, they aren’t totally wrong either!
So, How Is Dog’s Age really Calculated to get a more accurate picture of how they have aged?
Well, canine aging is much more rapid during their first two and a half years. Around 3 years of age, the ratio differs from different breeds. For example, a small breed one-year-old dog is really about age 15-16 in human equivalent measures. After its first two years, a small breed dog ages at about a rate of four human years per year, and after the dog's 13th year, its rate of aging slows to 2-1/2 years per calendar year.
Again, the ratio differs based on the size of the dog, and this will give you a rough idea of how the size of the dog ages comparatively.
- Small sized dogs: 1 calendar year to 4 dog’s years
- Medium sized dogs: 1 calendar year to 4.5 dog’s years
- Large sized dogs: 1 calendar year to 5.5 dog’s years
- Giant breeds: 1 calendar year to 7.2 dog’s years
The relative age of different-sized dogs varies through life. Given the different life expectancies of small to giant breeds, two dogs of exactly the same age may in fact be at very different stages in their lives.
|
Dog Age in Calendar Years |
Small 3 – 20lbs Human Equivalent Age in Years |
Medium 21 – 55lbs Human Equivalent Age in Years |
Large 56 – 88lbs Human Equivalent Age in Years/STRONG> |
Giant 89lbs ~ Human Equivalent Age in Years |
|
1 – 6 mths |
10 |
10 |
10 |
10 |
|
7 – 12 mths |
16 |
16 |
16 |
16 |
|
13 – 18 mths |
20 |
20 |
20 |
20 |
|
19 – 30 mths |
24 |
24 |
24 |
24 |
|
3 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
|
4 |
32 |
33 |
35 |
36 |
|
5 |
36 |
37 |
40 |
42 |
|
6 |
40 |
42 |
45 |
49 |
|
7 |
44 |
47 |
50 |
56 |
|
8 |
48 |
52 |
55 |
64 |
|
9 |
52 |
56 |
61 |
71 |
|
10 |
56 |
60 |
66 |
78 |
|
11 |
60 |
65 |
72 |
86 |
|
12 |
64 |
69 |
77 |
93 |
|
13 |
68 |
74 |
82 |
101 |
|
14 |
72 |
78 |
88 |
108 |
|
15 |
76 |
83 |
93 |
115 |
|
16 |
80 |
87 |
99 |
123 |
|
17 |
84 |
92 |
104 |
130 |
|
18 |
88 |
96 |
110 |
137 |
Savvy Shopper - Spending Smart and Caring for Pets Affordably
Studies show that owning a pet can lower your blood pressure, reduce stress and even help you live longer. But caring for Fluffy or Fido can take a bite out of your budget. Here are some ways to save:
Luv My Pet, one of the nation's largest providers of affordable pet care, offers low-cost vaccinations for dogs and cats. For a fee list and to find a nearby clinic, visit http://www.luvmypet.com. Connecticut locations include Petco stores in Enfield, Newington, Windsor, Farmington and Manchester.
To help older adults who are often on fixed incomes experience the beneficial effects of pet ownership, the Connecticut Humane Society underwrites some of the cost of pet adoption (of adult dogs or cats) for individuals 65 and older. Information: Connecticut Humane Society at CThumane.org or 1-800-452-0114.
The Fox Memorial Clinic, operated by the Connecticut Humane Society, offers well pet care, vaccination clinics and spay and neutering services at reduced costs. Information: CTHumane.org or 860-594-4503.
LoveThatCat.com lists programs (by state) that provide low-cost or free spaying and/or neutering for cats. (Some programs have income restrictions, some serve just pet cats or only feral cats, while other programs have no restrictions.)
You may also find valuable Information at: Aspca.org.
Dog owners in Massachusetts can get assistance and information from FairyDogParents.org
Luv My Pet, one of the nation's largest providers of affordable pet care, offers low-cost vaccinations for dogs and cats. For a fee list and to find a nearby clinic, visit http://www.luvmypet.com. Connecticut locations include Petco stores in Enfield, Newington, Windsor, Farmington and Manchester.
To help older adults who are often on fixed incomes experience the beneficial effects of pet ownership, the Connecticut Humane Society underwrites some of the cost of pet adoption (of adult dogs or cats) for individuals 65 and older. Information: Connecticut Humane Society at CThumane.org or 1-800-452-0114.
The Fox Memorial Clinic, operated by the Connecticut Humane Society, offers well pet care, vaccination clinics and spay and neutering services at reduced costs. Information: CTHumane.org or 860-594-4503.
LoveThatCat.com lists programs (by state) that provide low-cost or free spaying and/or neutering for cats. (Some programs have income restrictions, some serve just pet cats or only feral cats, while other programs have no restrictions.)
You may also find valuable Information at: Aspca.org.
Dog owners in Massachusetts can get assistance and information from FairyDogParents.org
